It’s be one week since I arrived in Horta, on the island of Faial in the Azores. I landed at the airport on Sao Miguel, after quite a few mishaps. If something—anything!—could go wrong on my journey, it did! But since I arrived all those mishaps have faded into memory, except the strange allergy or virus that came over me as I walked down the stairs of the plane onto the tarmac in Sao Miguel.
Although I had the longest trip ever to JFK airport (with a driver who made me quite uncomfortable for the duration of our 4 hour drive together) my flight was hugely delayed so my late arrival at the airport did not cause a problem. My luggage stayed in NY as I traveled to the Azores, but it also arrived the next day, in spite of the fact that SATA airlines does not fly JFK-Ponta Delgada every day. I lost my purse for a short time in the Ponta Delgada airport (Sao Miguel) and that was truly a panic for me, since it contained my passport, and all my important ‘cards.’ The cleaning lady had taken it and hung it on her cleaning cart. Luckily she was still nearby when I came back. What a stroke of luck for me!
For months before I traveled here I looked into what handwork is done on these islands. I worked myself into quite a frenzy of anticipation to see embroidery, lace, weaving, and basketry. Right before I left I learned that there is a technique used here for creating tiny gems with fish scales. The fish scales are collected, sometimes tinted with dyes, often cut to shapes, and sewn together to create mostly floral arrangements. Since I belong to a group of women who make Sailors’ Valentines, led by quite an expert in that field, Sandi Blanda, I thought they might be interested in knowing more about this technique along with me.
I had no idea it would be so hard to find examples of this work! I found an artists’ co-op (I think that’s what it is) outside of Horta, called Centre de Artesanato. We rented a car late last week, checking the hours the center would be open and the route on Google Maps, only to find the place closed. We arrived in the morning, then toured the island for a few hours before going back in the afternoon, since many shops observe a midday siesta here. No luck. The place is beautiful, and I was sad that I could not get in to see the wares.
We will try again this week. I won’t be deterred. Meanwhile, I’ve asked everyone who might help me about finding some of the handwork done on this island. Everyone knows of it, but not where to find it. It’s quite a mystery. Perhaps people make these things for their own satisfaction, which I completely understand since I do the same. But I am determined to see these works, hopefully understand a bit about how these works are made, and perhaps take something home with me! On the Centro de Artesanato website I found one fish scale artist who lives right outside Horta. This is the photo she put on the website; she is Zelia Freitas.
The fish scales appear to be sewn together with a fine silver thread, and some of the petals may have been dyed, or perhaps the fish itself had these delicately tinted scales. Zelia has offered for us to visit her home studio tomorrow afternoon.
Yesterday Bob and I found a small market on the side of Horta where the ferry terminal is. There were mostly bakeries, green markets, and one butcher in the market, as well as one small booth with ‘souvenirs.’ Among the inexpensive items was a glass cabinet that had some fish scale pieces in it! At last! After a week of searching I found six examples of this technique. The framed piece on the left is made from fish scales, and the artist signed the piece MJ Melo. The one on the right is something entirely different.
Last week we visited the Horta Museum, an interesting and somewhat odd collection of things that supposedly cover the history of this island, but only manages to cover very brief moments in the long history of the Azores. One of the galleries was full of intricately carved pieces made of some white material. It was definitely not whale bone, of which there are many examples here of scrimshaw and whale bone carving. Bob and I learned that one of the traditional crafts here is carving the white pith at the center of fig branches. I’ve never heard of this, but the Azoreans have made quite an art of it.
The most renowned carver is Euclides Rosa whose works fill an entire gallery in the museum. He has carved village scenes with buildings and people and trees, as well as individual items. Here is one example from the museum website.
The white pith at the center of fig branches is soft until it becomes a bit hardened over time. Even in its hardened state, it is softer to carve than bone or wood, but requires very fine tools and great dexterity. Layers of carved pitch are glued together with gum Arabic, and that has to be expertly done because over time the gum Arabic turns yellow, while the fig pith remains white. The glue has to be well hidden and carefully applied. The framed piece on right right above is a tiny cluster of roses carved in pith. The artist did not put his/her name on the piece. On a previous visit to Portugal (2014), I learned that there are associations of craft techniques, like guilds, and that in order to put a name on a piece that artist needs to achieve a certain level of expertise and be judged by the association. But the little arrangement of roses is so delicate and finely done I can’t imagine this carver would not be able to sign the work!
And so begins my search for how Azoreans express their creativity with the materials at hand on these islands. Bob and I will visit the island of Pico over the weekend where there are many walled gardens, like the cloistered gardens from the Middle Ages, where micro climates are created by protecting the gardens from the harsh Atlantic winter storms. There are walled vineyards which we hope to visit! There are two other islands we hope to visit before we spend our last week in Sao Miguel in early July, before I fly to Scotland.
