Category Archives: sailing

Slow Time

Yesterday we had an amazing experience with John and Wendy from Windermere since they offered to take us to their favorite snorkeling and shelling sites near Staniel Cay.  I am a reluctant snorkeler, so Wendy’s encouragement was absolutely wonderful!

Bob took videos….

Here’s some of my loot!

And an assortment of other beauties.  The top far right is a small conch.  I wish I had photographed the inside which is a deep coral.  The ones in the middle and bottom that are long and narrow with bands of coral are called “sunrise tellins.”  I have quite a few more that I did not photograph yet, including a large conch which I hope will become our sunset bugle.  My favorite shells are almost too tiny to see and are bright green!  They are called “emerald nerites.”  I hope I find more along the way.

This is today.  I’m using skype to call our younger son Chris!  Don’t I look happy?  We had to scream in order to barely hear each other.

I’m sitting outside Lorraine’s internet cafe on Black Point Cay.

A Lovely Day in Cocoa

I continue to marvel at how lovely the Christmas season can be in the tropics!  Bob and I took a walk together through the more historic residential area of Cocoa, the major style being bungalow from the early 20th century…..my favorite!

Nice modern addition to this classic bungalow, although I do wonder how hot that glass enclosure gets in the summer!

There were also quite a few more traditional looking Spanish inspired houses. Most of these houses had historic plaques.

Palm trees and Christmas decorations….it does work!

I wonder if this lovely shade of blue was chosen to match the flowering vine on their arbor.

Christmas with orange trees, bougainvillea, hibiscus, and lots of little lizards skittering across our path wherever we walked!

I capped off the day by visiting Knit and Stitch again to sit with the other knitters and work on my Ann Jacket.  What a lovely spot!  On top of being in a community of knitters, I learned that one of the women who works in the shop, Barbara,  is an avid weaver  and reps Schacht products for the store.  One of the other shop women, Ann, seems to have done some weaving herself, so I felt that I had found some wonderful connections here.  Thank you!

As if this wasn’t enough of a perfect day, we spent the evening on board Meltemi (a Catalina 42′) with Jeff and Susan, while they taught us a popular Bahamian cruisers’ domino game called “Mexican Train.”  (I shudder at how un-PC this name is!) I never knew there are dominoes with 12 spots on them!  I was terrible at understanding all the little dots on these tiles!

 Today we are headed to Melbourne….not Australia.  Before this trip I didn’t know there was a Melbourne in Florida.  It seems that wherever the English went they used place names from home.  Makes for a very confusing world!

Day 86, December 5: Cocoa to Melbourne

Holiday Lights

We are in St. Augustine, Florida now, right as the holiday lights have been turned on throughout the city.  Now I have to admit it’s beginning to feel a lot like…

It turns out that National Geographic made a list of the 10 best places in the world to see holiday lights, and St. Augustine is on the list.  It’s in great company with beautiful places like Vienna, Brussels, Madrid, Kobe, Gothenburg (Sweden).  In fact there are only two locations in the US on the list, and the other is not New York!

So, I feel lucky to be here.  We walked the beautiful streets for a while last night and are looking forward to some great sight seeing today.  The Flagler Museum supposedly has more Tiffany glass than any other building in the US.  I’m looking forward to seeing that!

Tonight we plan to have dinner at a little French restaurant called Bistro de Leon.

What a difference a little sunshine can make.  I’m looking forward to exploring this beautiful city, the oldest settled city in the US (founded in 1565, in fact).  Generations of city planners have worked hard to keep the charm of the original Spanish settlement, and it’s lovely!

 

Beach Combing on Black Friday

I couldn’t help thinking about all the folks who got up in the predawn today to hit the malls and start their Christmas shopping.  Black Friday has become quite the American tradition to kick off the holiday season….and not a good one.

It doesn’t seem like it’s time to hang the wreath and put candles in the window down here.  We left St. Marys for a short motor over to Cumberland Island which has the National Seashore.  To get to the ocean-side beach we walked through a forest of live oak, Spanish moss, and palmetto that could have been Middle Earth.

After getting out of the forest you walk a bit further on a boardwalk above the dunes to get to the ocean.

The forest transitions into beach along the way…

And then there are miles of silky pearl colored sand to walk along, and millions of shells rolling to and fro in the surf.  I picked up a lot of shells.  The whelks and clams are so different from what I see in New England!  I even found a lovely angel wing….although only one. I’m imagining a Christmas wreath made from these shells, a wreath covered in Spanish moss and shells.

We had heard that Cumberland Island is known for fossilized shark teeth.  They come out of the river when the channel for the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) is dredged.  The dredged debris is dumped in large quantities in a certain area on the island.  Bob was on a mission for a shark tooth! He even found a sieve to help him in his search.

He was hoping to find one a little bigger these!…although he could wear these as earrings.  I keep wondering if he’ll pierce his ear/s now that he’s a full time sailor.

Another exciting sight on Cumberland Island are wild horses.  We saw a mare and two foals along our walk.  They are pretty used to people so they are easy to photograph.  They don’t let you get close enough to touch though!

And as if a fantasy forest of live oak and palmettos, inhabited by wild horses, and a
17-mile long beach isn’t enough, the final highlight of Cumberland Island is the ruins of a Gilded Age house that was the winter retreat of the Carnegie family.

This was the first day in about a month that we enjoyed clear skies and warm sun, so we stayed ashore almost all day to soak up as much as we could!

We were back on board in time for sunset and a lovely dinner with new friends who spent the day with us at the seashore.

 It hardly felt like opening day of the Christmas shopping season…

 

A Sailor’s Thanksgiving

Like American ex-pats the world over, sailors also get together to celebrate our Thanksgiving tradition.

St. Marys, Georgia, is well known for bringing sailors together for a Thanksgiving festival.  The local Riverview Hotel opens its dining room to hundreds of cruisers, and locals volunteer to roast enough turkeys and hams to feed this army of transients.

Hotel owners Jerry and Gayla Brandon started our morning off with a bang by mixing up a large cooler of Bloody Marys while Charlie Jacobs delivered them by dinghy to every boat in the harbor!  I’ve never had a drink at 8.30 am, but I do highly recommend it!

The sailors arrive at the hotel from late morning through noon bearing all the side dishes and desserts.  Three long tables are set up in the hotel lobby to hold all the platters of food.

It almost felt like family, and it was a wonderful gathering.  Everyone was a bit homesick for loved ones, but we were a rag tag family to each other… and that was okay!

Missing my family and friends quite a bit this weekend….but I’m also  thankful for the generosity of St. Marys’ community and the newly made connections to very friendly cruisers.

I did wear my sleeve-less “Ann Jacket.”   And at the end of the day I picked up stitches and started the first sleeve.

Jetsam and Flotsam

A lot has happened in the week since I last posted here.  Mostly, I’ve been knitting!  I really want to wear my Ann Jacket for Thanksgiving, and with the cold front that is stalled here, I’ll need something wooly and warm to stave off hypothermia. (I’m on the front band now, which is 800 short rows of  20 stitches…but that’s still 800 rows and 16,000 stitches…. I’ve made peace with wearing the jacket as a vest for just this one day!)

We are in Savannah now, tied up to the main bulkhead right in the historic part of town which happens to be a very narrow part of the Savannah River.  When the huge ships go by there is a lot of rolling….and from dawn ’til dark they go by every few minutes.  I would never have guessed this would be such a busy port.

Before coming here yesterday, we spent a couple of days in Beaufort, South Carolina.  The spelling is exactly the same as Beaufort, North Carolina, and I’ve always gotten the two towns mixed up.  Now that I’ve actually visited both of them, I think I will forever keep them straight!  Both are lovely towns, but I enjoyed Beaufort, in South Carolina (pronounced like Be-yoo-frt), slightly more than Beaufort, North Carolina (which is pronounced like Bow-frt, as in tying a bow).  Perhaps it was because we were there for a particularly moving Veterans’ Day Parade.

… perhaps it was because we took a walk through an amazing historical part of town with houses that are so elegant they’ve been used in numerous movies, like “The Big Chill,”  “The Great Santini” and “Prince of Tides.”  Supposedly both Tom Berenger and Pat Conroy live nearby.

Perhaps it was because I stumbled on a knitting store!  And what an inviting, friendly shop it was!

How often does you walk into a knitting shop and see a knitted sweater that you simply cannot resist?  It doesn’t happen very often for me, but it happened here.

This is the “Ruffle Wrap Cardigan” by Cheryl Murray from the Fall 2012 issue of “Vogue Knitting.” The collar and cuffs in this sweater are knit with the wide ribbon that has holes punched in it for inserting the knitting needle.  I’ve been seeing this ribbon at yarn stores recently and wanting to try it!  This is such a pretty pattern for trying it out!  But….no starting until I have my Ann Jacket finished!

There are so many wonderful things that have happened in the last week.  The sights here are decidedly more southern.  Lots and lots of live oaks dripping with Spanish moss and softened by resurrection ferns.  The cypress have given way to more deciduous trees, but there is still sweetgrass for as far as you can see.  This area has so much water.  The charts we use for navigating are beautiful for all the winding creeks, rivers, estuaries…

And here’s the flotsam and jetsam bit…. into every adventure and journey some excitement must happen, right?  Well, we had our first excitement yesterday.  We had entered the Savannah River, and my, oh my!…it’s narrow!  There is a cold front stalled here bringing with it strong northeast winds which is pushing more water into the rivers and creeks so the tides are high, and the Savannah River is full of debris.  I was steering, watching and attempting to avoid large black plastic bags, large tree limbs that were somewhat submerged from being water logged. Ships were passing us!  Ships so big that they were longer than the river is wide.  And wouldn’t you know, as I was passing between something that look like the entire top of a tree and another something that looked like a big black garbage bag the engine coughed, the boat shuddered and lots of black smoke came out the exhaust.  I put the engine in neutral and Bob came running!  We were powerless!

There was a huge ship bearing down on us, and we had just enough forward momentum to get to the side of the channel.   Two tug boats came out to assist, and we later discovered that they were talking to the ship on channel 13, saying that they would just push us out of the way if we became a problem! New friends on a sailboat just ahead of us turned back to help us.  They came alongside, we rafted together, and they delivered us to the town dock!  It was dicey.  There was a long moment when I seriously entertained the notion of being run down by a ship.

Later, when we were safely docked and Bob was preparing to dive under the boat to see what was caught on our propeller, he got this photo.  It’s a different ship, but all the ships coming up the Savannah River are about this size….quite a contrast to the pretty schooner!

It’s November 15, and we hit our two-month point onboard on Veterans’ Day.  I’ve now been onboard Pandora longer than any previous trip.  And I certainly have more miles under my keel than ever before.

Day 63 and 64, Nov. 14 and 15: Savannah, Georgia

 

Knitting My Way through Life!

The past two days we have awakened to temperatures in the 30s!  Sweater weather!  We will be leaving Charleston today and heading ever more southward…. St. Mary’s, Georgia, by Thanksgiving!

I have come to the rather deflating realization that my Ann Jacket will not be finished by Thanksgiving.  Even if I had been knitting during the past week, which I haven’t, I still would not have finished it.  Sigh…

Before I took a hiatus from knitting in order to spend my days sightseeing in Charleston, I took a break from knitting the final body panel in order to knit the front left onto the back at sides and shoulders.  Once again, Vivian Hoxbro’s clever ideas kept me quite enthralled!  The way the shoulder knits together even includes an angle at the neck edge in spite of the fact that both body pieces were simple rectangles.  Brilliant!

This is really a terrible photo….the shoulder connection is not tapered as it appears here.  It’s just they way Bob is holding it.  And you can’t see how the front neck edge is tapered in spite of the front body panel being a rectangle.  Trust me, it’s ingenious!

I plan to spend some time today working on that final body panel, the right front, since we’ll be heading out of here shortly.  We’re not certain where we’ll stop at the end of the day.  Most likely a secluded place, which will be a rather nice change from being on a dock in a big city like Charleston….

I’ll end with a fun song I stumbled on a few a weeks ago.  I’d better warn you it will stick in your head for days…. but it’s catchy!

A Golden Landscape of Sweetgrass

Today we are underway in a bright, fall landscape.  Miles and miles of abandoned rice paddies on either side of us, now turned to fields of sweet grass interrupted by stands of cypress.  I hope to find some sweetgrass baskets for sale somewhere along the way.  Lots of bird life here:  huge flocks of purple martins that darken the sky as they swoop by.  They are all around, swooping in the distance then suddenly behind us and around us and charging off ahead.  I don’t think there can be many insects left for them to eat on these cold days.  Every mile or so we see a bird of prey silhouetted in a dead cypress.  Mostly hawks and buzzards…eagles are getting rarer down here.  We’ve been told we might see alligators, and we’re watching for them…

Yesterday we spent another night in our secluded little Jericho Creek, all alone.  We’ve kept warm by baking bread and other comfort foods.  One morning I made an apple Dutch baby,  mmmmm…  One evening recently I made pasta.  For 30 some odd years I’ve always mixed up the dough with a food processor, but really, it’s just egg and flour.  I was pretty certain I would do fine using a pastry cutter, and woohoo!  It works like a charm.  I will probably forego the food processor from here on, even at home.  I rolled out the dough with my little hand crank pasta machine.  It is on board with me since it doesn’t take up much room, and I left the cutter attachment at home. Even at home I rarely use that since I prefer to hand cut wide pappardelle type pasta.  I figured if I got this little workhorse home from Italy in my tiny suitcase many decades ago, I could surely find a small space for it on Pandora!  I’m very glad I brought it along!

I awoke this morning with a soft light shining in my eyes and thought I must have slept quite late, but it was the moon (one day past full) casting a silvery beam on me.  It was 52 degrees in our cabin!  Brrrrrrr!  Outside the temperature was in the 40s.  Time to make haste southward!

We were off just after 7.30 as the sun rose, and for a brief and fragile moment I saw the real proof of Homer’s phrase “rosy fingered dawn.”   The tips of the sweet grass and branches of cypress were tinged rose in the first light of day….I don’t think it lasted more than a couple of minutes.  It was breathtaking!

Happy Hallowe’en!  I’m afraid we won’t get much of a spooky celebration today unless we think of devious tricks to play on each other. And there is no candy on board, so if anything, it will just be tricks,  no treats. We will not reach civilization until tomorrow.  Today is a long 60 miles or so through a narrow cut in these low lands, through marsh and by swirling inlets.

Now, in late afternoon, we have just anchored in a small creek just north of Charleston.  The wind blew hard all day, from the high teens up to 25 mph.  The sun glinted brightly on the wind ruffled waters, but by late afternoon I was exhausted from the glare.  Never so happy to be out of it for now.  As we moved out of the creeks and back into saltier waters we began to see more pelicans again.  Boy!  They look so clumsy as they plunge into the water head first and create a huge splash. Doesn’t seem like they could possibly catch anything that way! Bob saw one dolphin!  No alligators…

I can just see a bit of Charleston on the horizon, promising many luxuries which I welcome!  I do love a secluded bit of space in a lovely landscape, but now I’m ready for some civilization!

We have more than 1000 miles under our keel now.  At no point in my previous life would I have wagered anything on me doing a trip like this.  And now suddenly I’ve wracked up over 1000 miles of sailing.  I scarcely believe it….

Day 50, October 30: Jericho Creek
Day 51, October 31: JerichoCreek to Long Creek 

An Anniversary Bouquet

Way up a creek with nothing but the swallows and hawks for company, Bob really wanted to give me a bouquet of flowers for the landmark anniversary of meeting each other several decades ago.  Pretty nice job!  And he risked life and limb to get these water hyacinths! (You never know….what with alligators lurking in the sweetgrass.) You can’t get these in any florist!

The Rainbow after the Storm

As I write this hurricane Sandy is hitting the shores where all my family and dear friends live.  I’m holding my breath until I hear from everyone, at least a day or so from now…

Meanwhile, the winds will continue strong here until the end of this week, and we are in glorious sunshine with clear skies and bright white clouds.  The autumn colors of the cypress swamps in the Waccamaw River are stunning, and our rainbow came in the form of a woman named June.

June is related to my oldest childhood friend, and we were so lucky to spend some time with her on this journey.  Her family has lived in this area for many generations.  It’s an area of cypress swamps, fields of sweetgrass, so much bird life and aquatic life…turtles, fish, alligators

June took us visit Brookgreen Gardens, which is not only a stunning garden set on the grounds of four historical plantations which were combined by the Huntingtons to create this space for displaying outdoor sculpture, but also over the years has acquired the largest collection of American sculpture in the US.  And it’s a magnificent place.  June’s family lived here when the Huntingtons began their plan for making Brookgreen, and I imagine June must have been a young girl when the gardens first opened in the 1930s.  June’s mother worked at the gardens when she was growing up, and June herself also worked here for more than a decade.  She made a perfect tour guide for our visit!

There are so many stunning works in these gardens, so beautifully displayed in the landscape…. it was a visual feast, and it didn’t take long for me to become visually overstimulated!

All through the landscape are live oaks dripping with Spanish moss.  Stunning… As it turns out, they grow quite quickly, so although these trees look as old as time, in reality they are only about 300 years old.

Afterward June took us to see Murrels Inlet where we saw a large flock of Wood Storks!  I did not know there were any storks in the US!  What a thrill!

We ended the day on June’s back deck, watching the light change toward sunset along the salt marsh estuaries of the inlet.

I can’t possibly describe how special this day was to us!  It was a day of days….and should I mention?…. well, okay, twist my arm…. this day of days was a landmark for us.  Forty years ago, can you believe it?….40 years ago…. we had our first date.  What a magnificent way to recognize our long life together.

 We have motored a little further down the Waccamaw and are anchored in another secluded spot off the river called Jericho Creek.  Today is about 10 degrees colder than yesterday, so I am bundled in my wingspan shawl and a pair of handknit wool socks.  I’ll be making something hot and comforting for dinner.

Day 47 and 48, October 27 and 28: Cow House Creek, off the Waccamaw River, SC.
Day 49, October 29: Cow House Creek to Jericho Creek, SC.