ArgoKnot

Author name: ozweaver

Holiday Lights

We are in St. Augustine, Florida now, right as the holiday lights have been turned on throughout the city.  Now I have to admit it’s beginning to feel a lot like…

It turns out that National Geographic made a list of the 10 best places in the world to see holiday lights, and St. Augustine is on the list.  It’s in great company with beautiful places like Vienna, Brussels, Madrid, Kobe, Gothenburg (Sweden).  In fact there are only two locations in the US on the list, and the other is not New York!

So, I feel lucky to be here.  We walked the beautiful streets for a while last night and are looking forward to some great sight seeing today.  The Flagler Museum supposedly has more Tiffany glass than any other building in the US.  I’m looking forward to seeing that!

Tonight we plan to have dinner at a little French restaurant called Bistro de Leon.

What a difference a little sunshine can make.  I’m looking forward to exploring this beautiful city, the oldest settled city in the US (founded in 1565, in fact).  Generations of city planners have worked hard to keep the charm of the original Spanish settlement, and it’s lovely!

 

Beach Combing on Black Friday

I couldn’t help thinking about all the folks who got up in the predawn today to hit the malls and start their Christmas shopping.  Black Friday has become quite the American tradition to kick off the holiday season….and not a good one.

It doesn’t seem like it’s time to hang the wreath and put candles in the window down here.  We left St. Marys for a short motor over to Cumberland Island which has the National Seashore.  To get to the ocean-side beach we walked through a forest of live oak, Spanish moss, and palmetto that could have been Middle Earth.

After getting out of the forest you walk a bit further on a boardwalk above the dunes to get to the ocean.

The forest transitions into beach along the way…

And then there are miles of silky pearl colored sand to walk along, and millions of shells rolling to and fro in the surf.  I picked up a lot of shells.  The whelks and clams are so different from what I see in New England!  I even found a lovely angel wing….although only one. I’m imagining a Christmas wreath made from these shells, a wreath covered in Spanish moss and shells.

We had heard that Cumberland Island is known for fossilized shark teeth.  They come out of the river when the channel for the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) is dredged.  The dredged debris is dumped in large quantities in a certain area on the island.  Bob was on a mission for a shark tooth! He even found a sieve to help him in his search.

He was hoping to find one a little bigger these!…although he could wear these as earrings.  I keep wondering if he’ll pierce his ear/s now that he’s a full time sailor.

Another exciting sight on Cumberland Island are wild horses.  We saw a mare and two foals along our walk.  They are pretty used to people so they are easy to photograph.  They don’t let you get close enough to touch though!

And as if a fantasy forest of live oak and palmettos, inhabited by wild horses, and a
17-mile long beach isn’t enough, the final highlight of Cumberland Island is the ruins of a Gilded Age house that was the winter retreat of the Carnegie family.

This was the first day in about a month that we enjoyed clear skies and warm sun, so we stayed ashore almost all day to soak up as much as we could!

We were back on board in time for sunset and a lovely dinner with new friends who spent the day with us at the seashore.

 It hardly felt like opening day of the Christmas shopping season…

 

A Sailor’s Thanksgiving

Like American ex-pats the world over, sailors also get together to celebrate our Thanksgiving tradition.

St. Marys, Georgia, is well known for bringing sailors together for a Thanksgiving festival.  The local Riverview Hotel opens its dining room to hundreds of cruisers, and locals volunteer to roast enough turkeys and hams to feed this army of transients.

Hotel owners Jerry and Gayla Brandon started our morning off with a bang by mixing up a large cooler of Bloody Marys while Charlie Jacobs delivered them by dinghy to every boat in the harbor!  I’ve never had a drink at 8.30 am, but I do highly recommend it!

The sailors arrive at the hotel from late morning through noon bearing all the side dishes and desserts.  Three long tables are set up in the hotel lobby to hold all the platters of food.

It almost felt like family, and it was a wonderful gathering.  Everyone was a bit homesick for loved ones, but we were a rag tag family to each other… and that was okay!

Missing my family and friends quite a bit this weekend….but I’m also  thankful for the generosity of St. Marys’ community and the newly made connections to very friendly cruisers.

I did wear my sleeve-less “Ann Jacket.”   And at the end of the day I picked up stitches and started the first sleeve.

A Digression

Just a moment away from tales of our journey, and tales of my knitting on board, to share some great things I found online in the past couple of days.

Prince Charles trying his hand at tapestry at the Australian Tapestry Workshop in Melbourne.  Really!  It’s not that scary! Actually, I’m sure he’s hamming it up for the press.  He is a wonderful supporter of the wool industry.

And this lovely image of a woman knitting….

Some highlights from the past week are all about food!  What better balm is there for terribly dreary weather?  We stayed on the docks in Savannah for a couple of nights and treated ourselves to some of the high spots of Savannah.

I discovered the Tea Room almost 20 years ago and have visited it each of the rare times I’ve been in Savannah since then.  In fact, I’ve been mail ordering their “Emperor’s Bride” loose tea for all those years.  This year I had “Red Fruits” black tea, and it is my new favorite. As you can see, there is a lot to choose from.

The store and the dining room is done with an “Arts and Crafts” theme that is really lovely!  I could live here…..

On another day, our friends from Brilliant recommended we all have lunch together at Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room.  What an experience!  You line up on the street with about a thousand other hungry people, and you are admitted to the dining room a table’s worth at a time.  Most of the tables seat between 6 and 12 people, so you are seated with others when a table becomes available.  You don’t order food; there is no printed menu.  Food just arrives at the table in large serving dishes, and you help yourself to what appeals to you.  I have never seen so much food on a table!  It’s more than Thanksgiving!  I think some of these dishes must always be on the menu:  fried chicken, black eyed peas, Brunswick stew, barbecued pork, corn on the cob, mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese, rutabaga, squash, green beans, candied sweet potatoes…..I’m sure I’m forgetting at least a dozen other dishes.  It was amazing.  The only thing you have a choice on is your drink, which can be sweetened or unsweetened iced tea, or water!

This is the little alley-way that leads into the dining room.  When we arrived at 12 noon the line was already down the street.

And here’s a shot of the table!

Oh yeah….just looking at this photo shows several dishes I forgot to mention!  Baked bean,  cornbread, biscuits….. it was amazing!

I’m not going to mention the three days it took us to get to St. Marys, Georgia.  The weather has just been so dreary that it’s best not to talk about it….best for me to just put it behind me.  I will say I had another day with some rather severe homesickness….

St. Marys (and it is not St. Mary’s) is just over the border from Fernandina Beach, Florida.  I mean literally.  I think the two towns would be connected if not for the border.  Well, maybe that is a slight exaggeration.  They do share the same harbor entrance that splits before you reach either town.  And that means that moments after we leave here we will be in Florida.  Wow!

In the meantime, we intend to have a marvelous few days here, and it’s going quite well at the moment since today I awoke to sunny skies for the first time in about two weeks!  Every night leading up to Thanksgiving there is some kind of evening get together for sailors in this town, or morning coffee and treats at one of the local shops.  They have a tradition here of taking good care of sailors for Thanksgiving!  I don’t know how they do it, but each year they serve Thanksgiving dinner to about 200 sailors.  “They” supply the turkeys and the sailors supply all the side dishes and desserts.

I’m off to shop for my contribution so I can bake tomorrow.

….Oh! And last night I wore my Ann Jacket for the first time….sans sleeves, but still, I wore it!

Jetsam and Flotsam

A lot has happened in the week since I last posted here.  Mostly, I’ve been knitting!  I really want to wear my Ann Jacket for Thanksgiving, and with the cold front that is stalled here, I’ll need something wooly and warm to stave off hypothermia. (I’m on the front band now, which is 800 short rows of  20 stitches…but that’s still 800 rows and 16,000 stitches…. I’ve made peace with wearing the jacket as a vest for just this one day!)

We are in Savannah now, tied up to the main bulkhead right in the historic part of town which happens to be a very narrow part of the Savannah River.  When the huge ships go by there is a lot of rolling….and from dawn ’til dark they go by every few minutes.  I would never have guessed this would be such a busy port.

Before coming here yesterday, we spent a couple of days in Beaufort, South Carolina.  The spelling is exactly the same as Beaufort, North Carolina, and I’ve always gotten the two towns mixed up.  Now that I’ve actually visited both of them, I think I will forever keep them straight!  Both are lovely towns, but I enjoyed Beaufort, in South Carolina (pronounced like Be-yoo-frt), slightly more than Beaufort, North Carolina (which is pronounced like Bow-frt, as in tying a bow).  Perhaps it was because we were there for a particularly moving Veterans’ Day Parade.

… perhaps it was because we took a walk through an amazing historical part of town with houses that are so elegant they’ve been used in numerous movies, like “The Big Chill,”  “The Great Santini” and “Prince of Tides.”  Supposedly both Tom Berenger and Pat Conroy live nearby.

Perhaps it was because I stumbled on a knitting store!  And what an inviting, friendly shop it was!

How often does you walk into a knitting shop and see a knitted sweater that you simply cannot resist?  It doesn’t happen very often for me, but it happened here.

This is the “Ruffle Wrap Cardigan” by Cheryl Murray from the Fall 2012 issue of “Vogue Knitting.” The collar and cuffs in this sweater are knit with the wide ribbon that has holes punched in it for inserting the knitting needle.  I’ve been seeing this ribbon at yarn stores recently and wanting to try it!  This is such a pretty pattern for trying it out!  But….no starting until I have my Ann Jacket finished!

There are so many wonderful things that have happened in the last week.  The sights here are decidedly more southern.  Lots and lots of live oaks dripping with Spanish moss and softened by resurrection ferns.  The cypress have given way to more deciduous trees, but there is still sweetgrass for as far as you can see.  This area has so much water.  The charts we use for navigating are beautiful for all the winding creeks, rivers, estuaries…

And here’s the flotsam and jetsam bit…. into every adventure and journey some excitement must happen, right?  Well, we had our first excitement yesterday.  We had entered the Savannah River, and my, oh my!…it’s narrow!  There is a cold front stalled here bringing with it strong northeast winds which is pushing more water into the rivers and creeks so the tides are high, and the Savannah River is full of debris.  I was steering, watching and attempting to avoid large black plastic bags, large tree limbs that were somewhat submerged from being water logged. Ships were passing us!  Ships so big that they were longer than the river is wide.  And wouldn’t you know, as I was passing between something that look like the entire top of a tree and another something that looked like a big black garbage bag the engine coughed, the boat shuddered and lots of black smoke came out the exhaust.  I put the engine in neutral and Bob came running!  We were powerless!

There was a huge ship bearing down on us, and we had just enough forward momentum to get to the side of the channel.   Two tug boats came out to assist, and we later discovered that they were talking to the ship on channel 13, saying that they would just push us out of the way if we became a problem! New friends on a sailboat just ahead of us turned back to help us.  They came alongside, we rafted together, and they delivered us to the town dock!  It was dicey.  There was a long moment when I seriously entertained the notion of being run down by a ship.

Later, when we were safely docked and Bob was preparing to dive under the boat to see what was caught on our propeller, he got this photo.  It’s a different ship, but all the ships coming up the Savannah River are about this size….quite a contrast to the pretty schooner!

It’s November 15, and we hit our two-month point onboard on Veterans’ Day.  I’ve now been onboard Pandora longer than any previous trip.  And I certainly have more miles under my keel than ever before.

Day 63 and 64, Nov. 14 and 15: Savannah, Georgia

 

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