ArgoKnot

Author name: ozweaver

Salt Marsh or Rice Paddy??

Last night we anchored alone in a quiet little estuary off the ICW, less than 10 miles south of Georgetown, SC.  We didn’t make it to Georgetown because of waiting for mid-tide in some particularly shallow areas of shoaling.  The shoaling seems worse than it did two years ago, and locals in Georgia have mentioned that there just isn’t money in the budget for keeping the waterway dredged as often as in the past.

Yesterday evening was beautifully quiet.  After a long day of listening to the engine run it was so peaceful to be alone in a pretty spot.  There was no wind, which is rather rare, so when the birds weren’t singing it was utterly quiet.  Here are the marshes in the last of of the light.

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I thought it was salt grass on all sides of us, but the guide book says they are rice paddies.  Hmmm…. there were some flood gate type constructions here and there, so maybe they were rice paddies. Notice the egret in the foreground.

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The sun set to a chorus of trilling blackbirds, and led to a cold but tranquil night–clear skies with a gibbous moon and lots of stars.

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 This morning the wind kicked up and dark clouds moved quickly over us bringing rain.  As we left the anchorage we saw a bald eagle in a lone tree in the rice paddy/marsh.  He took flight as we passed him.

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Before the rain found us there were some stunning moments along the canal as we headed for Georgetown.

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 By mid morning we were anchored just off the public docks in pretty Georgetown–although it’s too bad about the noise from the steel plant and the railroad tracks, and the smell from the papermill, all at the head of the harbor!  At the local museum we were told that those are rice paddies where we anchored, and the birds were most likely a type of bobolink that the locals call ‘rice birds.’  Rice birds have been a problem since rice was first grown in these parts.  They can eat an entire crop of rice, and no one has figured out a way to deter them.  So the current rice growing endeavor has failed.  I don’t quite understand this problem since there has always been plenty of Carolina rice as long as I can remember!

 

Shameless Landlubber

We have spent some wonderful days ashore between Fernandina, Savannah and Beaufort, SC.  I can’t walk 10 feet without taking a photo– of window boxes, planters, a beautiful front door or porch.  Clearly I miss land! –in spite of my little container gardens on Pandora.

Our last day in Savannah: camellias, cherry trees– even a few that have already begun leafing out!—azaleas, pansies.  It is full spring here.

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And just a few more doors…..I can’t help myself! Note the gas lamp at this door.  There were many in Savannah.

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Elegance on elegance…..would love to get a peak inside both these places!

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This gate with ivy is so pretty I can only imagine how lovely the garden must be on the other side!

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 Lunch was fun in a well known English style pub with good pub fare:  bangers and mash, shepherd’s pie, ploughman’s lunch.  I took this photo to show my dear friend Lesley, but I wish I’d taken a photo of my lunch so she could see I was having a Branston pickle!

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We visited the maritime museum that also happened to have a lovely garden surrounding it since the museum is housed in an historic house with beautiful grounds.

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The museum had quite an extensive collection of ship models, but what caught my eye were some of the very few other items, relics from various ships.  There was a wall of scrimshaw in one room, and I was intrigued with these lovely carved rolling pins. I don’t even have a rolling pin on Pandora since I only make a pie once or twice during our time onboard each year.  I use an empty wine bottle….we always have one on hand!

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And of course I had to take a photo of this lovely scene of children with a lamb.  Not your standard scrimshaw image!

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And just before leaving Savannah we had our photo taken by a couple of tourists after Bob offered to take theirs.

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From Savannah we moved on to Beaufort, where I looked forward to visiting one of the friendliest yarn shops, Coastal Knitting.  Just walking through the charming business section of town—so many beautifully tended shops and interesting restaurants—was delightful.  And the residential areas were beyond wonderful!  There were gardens in luscious bloom everywhere.  Here is just a sampling!

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This morning, just one day after leaving Beaufort, I found a comment here from a woman who lives in Beaufort, and who just returned herself from a couple of months onboard her trawler, armed with both knitting projects and a tapestry project.  It is a thrill to know that there are other weavers out there!  It can get so lonely out here without other weavers to talk to!

Non-weavers often recommend that I get an inkle loom or a little rigid heddle.  I love these small tools and enjoy using them when I have a certain project in mind that suits them.  But they in no way replace that urge to weave the type of cloth that I love.  It’s just not the same, and an inkle loom is never going to satisfy my need to design and create fabric.  Anyway—it’s very nice to be in touch with another weaver.  Laura Burcin plans being onboard for a longer period next winter.  I look forward to connecting with her in person.  In the meantime, I feel I have gotten to know her a bit through her blog.

Should I talk about my “For Irene” sweater, which I have ripped back in order to make the lower body smaller?  I certainly don’t want to!  It has not gone as simply as I envisioned!  I knitted most of this sweater in Portugal on my rosewood, interchangeable Knit Picks needles—size 4.  At the airport in Lisbon, as I was headed back to the US, they were taken from me.  Now that I’m trying to match the stockinette on the body of sweater, I am finding that none of my other needles are able to match the gauge of those particular needles I lost!  UGH! I have started and ripped back five times now!  This is a crisis! I did try to replace those needles in Coastal Knitting in Beaufort.  They don’t carry the interchangeables, but they did have size 4 circulars from Knitter’s Pride which I have heard is the same manufacturer as Knit Picks.  Alas, no luck on getting the same gauge!

I wanted to wear this sweater to a wedding in a little over two weeks, and now I’m rather convinced it won’t happen.  Ah well, time to make peace with that.  When I get home I can order a replacement for the needles I lost….

Crossing into Georgia

As I post this it is now several days into spring, and the weather has only gotten colder!  It’s been grey with high winds and horizontal rain.  I’ve been curled up down below knitting, while Bob has been standing out in the wind and rain at the helm, steering us ever northward.  The ICW in Georgia is very shallow so we can only move from shortly before high tide until shortly after high tide.  When the winds and currents are against us it’s not worth trying!  Hopefully tomorrow we will se a bit Savannah in sun with warm temperatures!  That’s what the weather predicts and I’m holding to it!

On the first day of spring we spent the morning walking the streets of Fernandina, while a dense fog had Pandora and various other transient boats lost in the mist.  It was perfectly clear on shore, but dense as pea soup out in the harbor.

Fernandina really is a beautiful southern town! Here are some of the lovely houses we saw along our walk.  I think this house might be the largest house in town–certainly the largest on our walk.  It is now an inn.

IMG_0338This house was fascinating from all directions!  It was hard to choose just one photo, but the view of this hand hewn porch won.

IMG_0332 I never get tired of looking for beautiful front doors, or doors of any kind.  A beautiful entrance to a house is just SO inviting!  And there were plenty of houses in Fernandina that just begged me to come sit on the porch or take a look through the front door.  I managed to refrain….

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Camellias in bloom at many houses, along with azaleas and roses.

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A series of lovely doors!

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IMG_0345Even a side door caught my attention….

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This house had such pretty birdhouses posted as finials on the gate to the front walk!

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I know you want to see a close up!

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I don’t know what this vine is that is growing on this outbuilding–I bet it doesn’t grown in Connecticut….

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And an orange tree with both flowers and fruit.

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Many streets smelled positively heavenly with mock orange shubs blooming at several houses.

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Getting back onboard I happened to check my email and found a comment from Marjorie recommending that I make sure to visit Bristly Thistle, the embroidery shop right in Fernandina!  Yikes!  I am so disappointed that I did miss it!  By the time I was reading Marjorie’s comment, we had dropped our mooring and were headed to Cumberland Island.  If we went back we’d have to give up our visit to Cumberland.  It was not an easy decision for me, but I also knew I’d already tortured Bob for quite some time during my visits to all the pretty shops in the center of Fernandina.  Well, Bristly Thistle is on my list for next time.  I won’t make that mistake twice!

Just to give you an idea of shopping hell for Bob:  this shop had curiosities, vintage items and antiques.  I had a ball…..Bob, not so much…  now I’ve got ideas for what I can do with all my shells.

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By mid-afternoon we had anchored off  Cumberland Island and were headed ashore in the dinghy. We walked to the ruins of the Carnegie mansion on Cumberland Island, and then into the small town that was built to hold the employees of the mansion.  It was beautifully clear on shore with blue skies above us.  We thought we were done with fog!  Not so!

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If you look really closely in the photo you will see that I’m wearing on of my recently finished sweaters!  All in all, it was a glorious first day of spring!

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We left just after sunrise on Sunday morning in order to take advantage of the rising tide. While we travel through Georgia we will only have 4 or 5 hours a day, just a couple of hours on either side of high tide, to make our way.  At low tide the Intra Coastal Waterway here is too shallow for Pandora.  So we will move while we can, and then stop each day to await the next high tide during daylight hours.  There are no towns on our route, so we will have several days of quiet passage and peaceful anchorages in the salt marshes.  The landscape is beautiful here, and there are still dolphins following our wake, and lots of beautiful shore birds.

Arctic terns are following us quite closely at our stern.  They are flying just about eye level with us, and at the same speed we are going.  It’s fascinating to see a bird in flight this closely.  Today I saw one bird cross its legs and rub them together like he was scratching his legs!  And I am making eye contact with the birds.  It’s so strange to look right into the eyes of a bird in flight and find him looking right at me!  I can see closely how they move their heads as they fly, watching the water for interesting tidbits.  I think we must have been stirring up stuff on the muddy bottom that attracted these terns.  I tried really hard to get a photo of one of terns looking right at me…..no luck!

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Welcome the Vernal Equinox!

It’s the first day of spring, yet decidedly unspring-like in Fernandina Beach, Florida.  We have awakened to dense fog, and the scenery in late March looks just like the little tapestry I did of our view here back in early January.  I am always going to think of St. Mary’s River in the gloaming…

There was a lunar eclipse this morning that I’ve heard was quite dramatic throughout northern Europe.  Here, I was quite excited to get up early (5.30 am) and view it, but since we had thick fog it was not meant to be!

On the morning when we left St. Augustine I saw a most alluring trick of light.  At one point during the sun’s rise from the horizon the water of St. Augustine turned a lovely color of cornflower blue!  I’ve never seen anything like it!  And the boats at anchor were glowing white as if they were lit from within.  It only lasted a moment—maybe not even 10 minutes—and it was so lovely!

The day we traveled north from St. Augustine to Fernandina Beach got windier and grey as the day wore on.  By early afternoon we had apparent wind of 25 – 30 mph coming straight at us.  It was screaming!  And with the tide against us as well we made very slow progress.  Long day.  We were exhausted when we got to Fernandina.

So it was lovely to wake up to a beautiful morning here yesterday.  We took advantage of the day to spend some time ashore.  Along the residential streets there are azaleas in bloom, along with camellias and even some wistera blooming amidst the palm trees.  Now that’s an odd sight!

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Charming houses along the residential streets…

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The business district of town has some classic early 20th buildings.  Here are the courthouse and the Post Office.

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3-20-15a 008And a view down the main street in town.

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 There are some great shops in Fernandina and some enticing restaurants.  I am particularly tempted by a shop with some funky, hand-made looking shoes.  Since we have fog this morning I may go back and try on a couple of pairs.

When Bob filled some water jugs on the dock  yesterday, he was right near the fish cleaning station.  Several pelicans thought it was handout time for fish scraps, and they stared Bob down waiting.  Unfortunately he had nothing to give them and they were not happy about that!  None of my photos quite catch the condescending looks these birds give you!–probably due to always having their beaks down so they look like they are looking down their ‘noses’ at everyone!

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  My coral sweater is finished!—I even wore it during the windy, cloudy travel day here.  No photo yet, but here is the pattern I used—sort of.  My sweater doesn’t look much like this photo at all.

First of all, I don’t do hoods, so my sweater has a K2, P2 ribbed neckline leading into the Henley neck opening.  Then the color is bright watermelon, or coral, linen/cotton blend of Berrocco’s “Linsey.”  I finished the bottom of the sweater and the sleeve cuffs with the same K2, P2 ribbing that I used on the neck.  Voila!

I still have to sew on the 2nd sleeve of my “For Irene” sweater designed by Carol Sunday.  I don’t know how successful my version is.  I made the body rather A-line below the armscythe.  That is a good look on me, but I may have overdone it!  It is quite large at the bottom.  I don’t have a full length mirror on board, so I can’t tell.  I guess I’ll find out when we get to our hotel in April for the upcoming wedding.  If I don’t like it, it will not be hard to fix, although not in time to wear for the wedding.  I can leave the sweater completely sewn together at the sleeves and shoulders and just undo the side seams near the bottom of the sweater and re-knit with fewer increases.  Luckily it was knit from the top down, so it will unravel easily!  Hoping I don’t have to do this—and hoping I can muster some energy for sewing in that final sleeve!  I am a slug when it comes to assembling sweaters.

So after a bit of shoe shopping this morning, we plan to sail to Cumberland Island midday—if the fog lifts.  Cumberland is a lovely spot, with wild horses, and wonderful shells.  I always meant to make some wreaths with the shells I gathered here two years ago.  Maybe I’ll finally get to that this summer…

Northward Bound

We are headed north now.  We have a deadline—always a bad choice to have deadlines on a boat (so that is a bad decision!).  Mother Nature loves to mess with deadlines.  Another wise, old adage goes like this:

The most dangerous piece of equipment on boat is a calendar.

You see, we have a wedding in South Carolina in mid-April, and we want to be there!  We are also putting Pandora in brokerage this spring in order to buy another boat, so getting her to her brokerage home before the wedding would be the best plan.  I’m sure Mother Nature will have a good time with our plans, but we have to make the attempt.  So we are headed north.

For the past week we have sailed north and just taken enough time to stop each night to rest before continuing each morning.  These have been long days, either sailing out in the Atlantic or motoring up the Intra Coastal Waterway. We even had two days with good wind for sailing up the ICW. While these days have not included any shore leave, there have been lots of interesting sights on the water:  flying fish, manatees, dolphins, shore birds—even some very interesting man made birds that have been thrilling to watch as they fly overhead.

We missed getting photos of all the lovely wildlife, so I’ll just include some sunsets.

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And this tiny island where someone had set up a tent!

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Yesterday we arrived in Daytona and decided we’d like to see this city that we have previously always passed by.  We had a wonderful dinner at The Cellar, which is located in a beautiful early 20th c. house that used to be Warren Harding’s summer home.  What a lovely spot and a beautiful home.  The menu is amazing and so are the wine choices!

We ate in the pretty sunroom.  This photo (which I did not take!) was taken from the window table where Bob and I sat.

We arrived here on the last day of the annual ‘bike week’ here in Daytona.  We could hear the revving engines of many, many bikes as we set the anchor when we first arrived.  It put me in mind of the famous racetrack, and I did wonder if there were some kind of car race going on.  We will have to get ashore early this morning if we want to see the bikes before they leave town.  Perhaps this bike rally is a significant part of what makes Daytona so popular for college students on spring break.

Next stop is St. Augustine, a place we’ve visited numerous times, both by water and by land.  We will spend a few days there since we hurried out of town back in January when it was so cold!

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