ArgoKnot

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Beach Combing on Black Friday

I couldn’t help thinking about all the folks who got up in the predawn today to hit the malls and start their Christmas shopping.  Black Friday has become quite the American tradition to kick off the holiday season….and not a good one.

It doesn’t seem like it’s time to hang the wreath and put candles in the window down here.  We left St. Marys for a short motor over to Cumberland Island which has the National Seashore.  To get to the ocean-side beach we walked through a forest of live oak, Spanish moss, and palmetto that could have been Middle Earth.

After getting out of the forest you walk a bit further on a boardwalk above the dunes to get to the ocean.

The forest transitions into beach along the way…

And then there are miles of silky pearl colored sand to walk along, and millions of shells rolling to and fro in the surf.  I picked up a lot of shells.  The whelks and clams are so different from what I see in New England!  I even found a lovely angel wing….although only one. I’m imagining a Christmas wreath made from these shells, a wreath covered in Spanish moss and shells.

We had heard that Cumberland Island is known for fossilized shark teeth.  They come out of the river when the channel for the ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) is dredged.  The dredged debris is dumped in large quantities in a certain area on the island.  Bob was on a mission for a shark tooth! He even found a sieve to help him in his search.

He was hoping to find one a little bigger these!…although he could wear these as earrings.  I keep wondering if he’ll pierce his ear/s now that he’s a full time sailor.

Another exciting sight on Cumberland Island are wild horses.  We saw a mare and two foals along our walk.  They are pretty used to people so they are easy to photograph.  They don’t let you get close enough to touch though!

And as if a fantasy forest of live oak and palmettos, inhabited by wild horses, and a
17-mile long beach isn’t enough, the final highlight of Cumberland Island is the ruins of a Gilded Age house that was the winter retreat of the Carnegie family.

This was the first day in about a month that we enjoyed clear skies and warm sun, so we stayed ashore almost all day to soak up as much as we could!

We were back on board in time for sunset and a lovely dinner with new friends who spent the day with us at the seashore.

 It hardly felt like opening day of the Christmas shopping season…

 

A Digression

Just a moment away from tales of our journey, and tales of my knitting on board, to share some great things I found online in the past couple of days.

Prince Charles trying his hand at tapestry at the Australian Tapestry Workshop in Melbourne.  Really!  It’s not that scary! Actually, I’m sure he’s hamming it up for the press.  He is a wonderful supporter of the wool industry.

And this lovely image of a woman knitting….

Some highlights from the past week are all about food!  What better balm is there for terribly dreary weather?  We stayed on the docks in Savannah for a couple of nights and treated ourselves to some of the high spots of Savannah.

I discovered the Tea Room almost 20 years ago and have visited it each of the rare times I’ve been in Savannah since then.  In fact, I’ve been mail ordering their “Emperor’s Bride” loose tea for all those years.  This year I had “Red Fruits” black tea, and it is my new favorite. As you can see, there is a lot to choose from.

The store and the dining room is done with an “Arts and Crafts” theme that is really lovely!  I could live here…..

On another day, our friends from Brilliant recommended we all have lunch together at Mrs. Wilkes’ Dining Room.  What an experience!  You line up on the street with about a thousand other hungry people, and you are admitted to the dining room a table’s worth at a time.  Most of the tables seat between 6 and 12 people, so you are seated with others when a table becomes available.  You don’t order food; there is no printed menu.  Food just arrives at the table in large serving dishes, and you help yourself to what appeals to you.  I have never seen so much food on a table!  It’s more than Thanksgiving!  I think some of these dishes must always be on the menu:  fried chicken, black eyed peas, Brunswick stew, barbecued pork, corn on the cob, mashed potatoes, macaroni and cheese, rutabaga, squash, green beans, candied sweet potatoes…..I’m sure I’m forgetting at least a dozen other dishes.  It was amazing.  The only thing you have a choice on is your drink, which can be sweetened or unsweetened iced tea, or water!

This is the little alley-way that leads into the dining room.  When we arrived at 12 noon the line was already down the street.

And here’s a shot of the table!

Oh yeah….just looking at this photo shows several dishes I forgot to mention!  Baked bean,  cornbread, biscuits….. it was amazing!

I’m not going to mention the three days it took us to get to St. Marys, Georgia.  The weather has just been so dreary that it’s best not to talk about it….best for me to just put it behind me.  I will say I had another day with some rather severe homesickness….

St. Marys (and it is not St. Mary’s) is just over the border from Fernandina Beach, Florida.  I mean literally.  I think the two towns would be connected if not for the border.  Well, maybe that is a slight exaggeration.  They do share the same harbor entrance that splits before you reach either town.  And that means that moments after we leave here we will be in Florida.  Wow!

In the meantime, we intend to have a marvelous few days here, and it’s going quite well at the moment since today I awoke to sunny skies for the first time in about two weeks!  Every night leading up to Thanksgiving there is some kind of evening get together for sailors in this town, or morning coffee and treats at one of the local shops.  They have a tradition here of taking good care of sailors for Thanksgiving!  I don’t know how they do it, but each year they serve Thanksgiving dinner to about 200 sailors.  “They” supply the turkeys and the sailors supply all the side dishes and desserts.

I’m off to shop for my contribution so I can bake tomorrow.

….Oh! And last night I wore my Ann Jacket for the first time….sans sleeves, but still, I wore it!

A Golden Landscape of Sweetgrass

Today we are underway in a bright, fall landscape.  Miles and miles of abandoned rice paddies on either side of us, now turned to fields of sweet grass interrupted by stands of cypress.  I hope to find some sweetgrass baskets for sale somewhere along the way.  Lots of bird life here:  huge flocks of purple martins that darken the sky as they swoop by.  They are all around, swooping in the distance then suddenly behind us and around us and charging off ahead.  I don’t think there can be many insects left for them to eat on these cold days.  Every mile or so we see a bird of prey silhouetted in a dead cypress.  Mostly hawks and buzzards…eagles are getting rarer down here.  We’ve been told we might see alligators, and we’re watching for them…

Yesterday we spent another night in our secluded little Jericho Creek, all alone.  We’ve kept warm by baking bread and other comfort foods.  One morning I made an apple Dutch baby,  mmmmm…  One evening recently I made pasta.  For 30 some odd years I’ve always mixed up the dough with a food processor, but really, it’s just egg and flour.  I was pretty certain I would do fine using a pastry cutter, and woohoo!  It works like a charm.  I will probably forego the food processor from here on, even at home.  I rolled out the dough with my little hand crank pasta machine.  It is on board with me since it doesn’t take up much room, and I left the cutter attachment at home. Even at home I rarely use that since I prefer to hand cut wide pappardelle type pasta.  I figured if I got this little workhorse home from Italy in my tiny suitcase many decades ago, I could surely find a small space for it on Pandora!  I’m very glad I brought it along!

I awoke this morning with a soft light shining in my eyes and thought I must have slept quite late, but it was the moon (one day past full) casting a silvery beam on me.  It was 52 degrees in our cabin!  Brrrrrrr!  Outside the temperature was in the 40s.  Time to make haste southward!

We were off just after 7.30 as the sun rose, and for a brief and fragile moment I saw the real proof of Homer’s phrase “rosy fingered dawn.”   The tips of the sweet grass and branches of cypress were tinged rose in the first light of day….I don’t think it lasted more than a couple of minutes.  It was breathtaking!

Happy Hallowe’en!  I’m afraid we won’t get much of a spooky celebration today unless we think of devious tricks to play on each other. And there is no candy on board, so if anything, it will just be tricks,  no treats. We will not reach civilization until tomorrow.  Today is a long 60 miles or so through a narrow cut in these low lands, through marsh and by swirling inlets.

Now, in late afternoon, we have just anchored in a small creek just north of Charleston.  The wind blew hard all day, from the high teens up to 25 mph.  The sun glinted brightly on the wind ruffled waters, but by late afternoon I was exhausted from the glare.  Never so happy to be out of it for now.  As we moved out of the creeks and back into saltier waters we began to see more pelicans again.  Boy!  They look so clumsy as they plunge into the water head first and create a huge splash. Doesn’t seem like they could possibly catch anything that way! Bob saw one dolphin!  No alligators…

I can just see a bit of Charleston on the horizon, promising many luxuries which I welcome!  I do love a secluded bit of space in a lovely landscape, but now I’m ready for some civilization!

We have more than 1000 miles under our keel now.  At no point in my previous life would I have wagered anything on me doing a trip like this.  And now suddenly I’ve wracked up over 1000 miles of sailing.  I scarcely believe it….

Day 50, October 30: Jericho Creek
Day 51, October 31: JerichoCreek to Long Creek 

The Daily Routine Onboard

It starts with a latte made by Bob.  It’s a great way to start the day!  I highly recommend it!

Then, of course, there is knitting.  I knit everyday.  And I plan meals… both those activities go without saying.

On this trip our new tradition is to read from The Boy, Me and the Cat at some point each day.  This is a classic cruising tale about a man, Henry Plummer, and his teenage son who sailed a small catboat down the coast from Massachusetts to Florida during the fall/winter/spring of 1912-1913…. exactly a hundred years ago!  Some things haven’t changed at all during the past century, and some things are light years different…

Henry started his journey a full month after we did.  So, after all my complaining about being cold, I’m now reading how he woke to mornings with icy decks and had to break the ice in the basin in order to have a wash up.  Yikes!  I don’t know anything about hardship, do I?

Some of most entertaining parts of the book involve the antics of Henry’s cat, Scottie, who was drafted into the trip.  She is a feisty little thing, and with no ‘kitty kibble’ onboard her meals are always interesting…

Eleven years ago Bob and I worked on a new edition of this book.  I edited the text and chose some of Henry’s original photos to add to his wonderful line drawings, and Bob worked on all the details of getting the book republished.  It came out in 2001, bankrolled by The Catboat Association, who are the repository for all of the Plummer family’s many treasures related to this book.  Our edition got very high praise from Wooden Boat Magazine, Elizabeth Meyer (founder of IYRS) and even Walter Kronkite!…among others.  We are very proud of this edition, and we worked hard to include lots of information that the previous editions (and subsequent editions too) could not.   This is the only edition that includes Henry’s photos and appendices that include his correspondence from that time, newspaper articles about him, and family information and what became of the Mascot.  It’s a great story whether you read our version of one of the others….but our edition has the most to offer!

So, as we sit anchored in Beaufort, North Carolina, we are reading about Henry’s visit here in early December of 1912.

Turned out at 5 to find all quiet, still and dark. So quiet that from the quarter I could hear the ticking of our little clock.  So calm that each star was mirrored on the water.  Away under power by 7.  Out into a golden sunrise the pride and beauty of the day.  Here was a morning for sun worshippers to kneel.  Sea and sky melted into one great glory in the east and behind us faded into soft pearly mists in which horizons were lost, and we seemed to be floating in air.  So flat the bosom of the sea that the meanest stepmother in the land would have been proud to call it hers.  The duck feathers floated on the surface as lightly as — well, I can’t think just how lightly now, but gosh-dinghed lightly.  We turned her on a 20 mile leg southwest at 8, and sailed all morning on this wonderful sea.  Why can’t somebody come here and tell people of the beauties to be found?

You can see why we look forward to each day’s installment!  Henry Plummer was one of the first adventurers to sail these waters for pleasure.

This evening we will have a little party onboard for other sailors we keep bumping into (not literally!).  We will finish the last of that peck of oysters!

 

Just Chillin’

I’m feeling a tad homesick these days…..so I can’t stop taking photos of houses…. these are  the lovely houses in St. Michaels.

Days 15 and 16, Sept. 25 and 26: St. Michaels

There is a yarn store here which I’ve visited in past years, Frivolous Fibers, which just might be the friendliest yarn store ever!  When I got there yesterday there was hardly room to peruse the yarn shelves because there were so many women lounging together working on projects.  It wasn’t a class; it was a gathering, and it happens every Tuesday! They invited me to find a seat and join them.   These are my people!  Women were working on sweaters and afghans, lace shawls, cowls….you name it!  They were discussing books, knitting, grandchildren, husbands.  It felt like home.  It felt like my wonderful knitting group from NJ… I miss them SO much!

Back on board Pandora for a little ‘wine and roses’ before dinner.

Then back ashore for dinner at Ava’s, a wine bar and brick oven pizzeria.  Wonderful!

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