Albemarle Sound, Alligator River, and Pamlico Sound
What a lot of exotic names!
First, I want to say that we did get to visit the Museum of the Albemarle before leaving Elizabeth City, and what a treat that was for me! Can you imagine my happiness at seeing a large floor loom in the entrance to the museum! My kind of place!
I marched right up to that loom and fondled the warp….before noticing the sign that said “DO NOT TOUCH!” Oh well….I’m sure they wanted to keep people from touching the loom, not the warp! Whoever set up the loom did a brilliant job in choosing a warp that would look appropriate to the time period: 8/2 cotton flake that could almost pass for ‘homespun’ in colors that were quite similar to the natural dye colors that would have been available in 1760. The rest of the museum proved equally fascinating to me. There were plenty of domestic artifacts from the mid 16th century when the first Europeans arrived in this area, through the mid-20th century. There was an exhibit of Lewis Hine’s photographs of young children working in the textile mills in the 19th century. Heartrending, compelling photos. The whole museum was lots of fun for me….
Our last stop on the way back to the boat was Quality Seafood, where you could eat in, take out, or buy raw fish. We got a pound of large local shrimp that looked colossal to me! We also wanted a dozen or so oysters, but that was not possible. Oysters are sold by the bushel, 1/2 bushel, or peck. The woman at the counter assured us that a peck was only enough ‘ersters’ for one of two people, so we opted for that. When she brought out the bag though it weighed almost 20 pounds and looked like enough for a large party! Bob had to carry that back to the boat!
Since then we have traveled down the Alligator River which was quite different than I expected. While the Dismal Swamp was anything but dismal, the Alligator River was anything like its name. I was expecting quite a lush jungle, and while I’d heard that there are no longer alligators there, I did expect to see lots of other wildlife. We had heard from other sailors that they had seen both deer and black bear on the Alligator. I think “dismal” is a far better word for this stretch of water. There were lots of low stunted shrubs, and half the trees here were dead while the other half are not far behind. It was very desolate. A hundred years ago this was a well known place for whistling swans, but we saw none. No ducks or geese either, in spite of the 20 or so duck blinds in the water and some unused camps on shore. The only wildlife we saw, which was indeed quite impressive, was three bald eagles. Two of them were sitting together on the top branch of one of the many dead trees. I did not know that eagles would tolerate that kind of proximity. I can’t imagine what they were hunting beyond little rodents because we saw no evidence of life. It looked like the perfect place to originate ghost stories!
We ended the day with a platter of oysters on the half shell and a gin and tonic! We had tucked into those oysters already when Bob realized we really should document it! So we cleaned up the empties, refilled the platter and took the shot! Doesn’t it look tantalizing? I can assure you it was!
And those shrimp tasted like my childhood when I’d visit my grandmother on the Gulf on Mexico (the one who taught me to knit 50 years ago), and we’d eat the local shrimp for dinner…. sigh…
Both Albemarle Sound and Pamlico Sound are giant bowls of shallow water….not much to look at to my sensibilities. When the wind kicks up these shallow waters really get choppy, and I had a good taste of that when we crossed the Albemarle two days ago. Today Pamlico Sound is calm as bathwater, which I much prefer!
So how is my knitting going, you may ask! I haven’t even spoken of it in about a week. Well, I had a good five day hiatus from knitting which is quite rare for me. I did not take it with me to our friends’ house in Williamsburg. When we returned to the boat on Monday of this week, I finished the shawl and also finished the very interesting back assembly of the Ann jacket. That wingspan shawl came together in only two knitting sessions, so I highly recommend it for a quick project, but the Ann jacket has been on the needles since before we left on this trip. It seemed quite odd to me to be casting them both off on the same day! Wouldn’t you know now that I have a shawl ready to wear the weather has gotten warm. I don’t know if its just a warm spell or if we have gotten ahead of the colder fall weather.
At any rate, I have not been able to block the shawl all week. The weather has been too damp, although not exactly rain. I can’t take the chance that the shawl will not dry in one day since it will be pinned out on the bed where we must sleep! Now I wonder if I’ll ever end up wearing it! I’ll be happy to have it if it should get colder again. I know the next five days are supposed to be very pleasant, in the 70s.
Lastly, several days ago I discovered that I do have a solution to cold weather if we should encounter it again. I have a mostly finished Einstein coat in one of my bins! When I put is aside I was partway through the first sleeve. I could, in a pinch, swallow my pride and actually wear it, with circular needles dangling off that one sleeve. Depends on how cold I get….
As I write this, we are on the hook in Oriental, and back into pelican waters. I’d better make good use of internet availability here to find me some ‘low country erster’ recipes cause we sure have a lot more to eat!
We have seen so much activity in the air since arriving in North Carolina. We passed a Coast Guard air station full of helicopters and even Coast Guard planes which I’ve never seen before, as well as another new sight for me: a blimp hangar! There was one blimp up in the air and one down on the ground, and yesterday we were entertained by an hour’s worth of crazy maneuvers by an F15 fighter jet. I bet Bob posts photos….
Days 38 – 40 , October 17 – 19: Elizabeth City, through Albemarle Sound, the Alligator River and Pamlico Sound to Oriental, North Carolina.
