ArgoKnot

The Lion Still Roars

We’re three days into April and there is no sign yet of gentle spring weather down here.  In fact, it’s going to get a lot worse before there is any hope of calm seas and light breezes…

We spent Easter weekend in the Exuma Land and Sea Park at Warderick Wells.  It is a land and sea life refuge so it is teeming with lots of sea life on beautiful coral reefs, beaches full of beautiful shells, banana twits that are so tame they will land on your hand, just to name a few what constitutes abundant life down here!  There are lots of trails to walk which change from fine sugar sand to the strange, lava-like limestone that looks and feels more like walking on rusted iron.   The limestone islands of the Exuma cays have been created through a build-up of calcium carbonate from the rise and fall of sea levels, along with wind and rain.  Over thousand of years these conditions have eroded the limestone into pits that can be quite large and deep.

The park ranger Andrew and his partner Jennifer hosted a wonderful Easter dinner at midday on Sunday, and one of the visiting boaters held a sunrise service on Booboo Hill, the highest place on the island.  It is not a high summit, but the walk still has its challenges due to the nature of the limestone crags.

About 40 people went to the Easter dinner held in the park ranger’s lovely house that has stunning views of both the Atlantic Ocean and the Great Bahamas Bank.

There are other islands in the Exuma Park, and on Monday we sailed north to Shroud Cay where I have now seen my first Tropical Long Birds!  They are stunning!  I hurled myself all over a bouncing Pandora to try to capture them on film!  They make a wonderful squeaking call that I have enjoyed hearing!  In fact, I tend to hear them before I can see them!

Shroud Cay is known for its mangrove swamps, and at high tide we took the dink through the maze of mangroves and eventually made it out to the ocean side of the island where we walked along a 2 mile deserted beach.  This is the stuff of daydreams…

But back to the weather… weather is the defining force of our trip down here.  According to more seasoned sailors who have spent many winters down here, this has been the most challenging winter in about a decade.  There are almost no harbors that offer 360-degree protection in quickly changing weather, so each day sailors must gather what information they can and try to pick a destination that offers the most protection.  There is a big storm coming Friday that will give us sustained winds of 50 knots with gusts going to around 70 knots.  Yikes!

We’ve got our plan in place and hopefully we’ll be snug and safe in Highbourne Cay.  The frosting on the cake (for me) is that there is an excellent restaurant there, so at least I’ll be dining in style during the blow.

There is internet at Highborne, so I’m looking forward to catching up on blogs I love to visit and checking on what friends are posting on Facebook, and making phone calls!  And I will make my travel plans for heading home….37 days to go!

You can track our location here.

In Like a Lamb

We hear that the weather has been quite challenging along the East Coast of the US, but here in the Bahamas spring is hardly different than winter!  We have had some challenging winds down here this winter, and since that has not yet stopped perhaps that is our ‘lion.’

During the most recent week of strong winds, we have been in a little archipelago of islands that include Compass Cay, Pipe Cay, Little Pipe Cay, Thomas Cay, and Joe Cay. These little islands are either uninhabited or privately owned by very wealthy individuals, so there is no going ashore and no provisions. Everyday we visit at least one new beach, each with its own marvels. There are more beaches than I can count, as well as a beautiful mangrove swamp that we explored at low tide.  Pandora may have a more pronounced starboard list due to my shell collecting!

Now aren’t you just dying to see these starfish in more detail??  The local name for them is ‘cushion star,’ and they come in differing patterns of gold and deep red.  The patterns and colors strongly remind me of stitched shibori on fabric first dyed a light Brazilwood , then stitched and dipped into a deep madder bath.  They are truly stunning!

While we’ve been here I have spent my mornings knitting or weaving  baskets, then after lunch Bob and I go exploring.  We relax in the evenings and often share dinners with our friends aboard Ariel.

My basket collection is growing…. I have given away the bigger basket in this group, and I plan to continue making a number of the smaller ones.  They are just the right size for a votive candle, and the candlelight makes interesting patterns as it shines through the coiled stitches.

I am just a few rows away from the shoulder shaping on “Mary Tudor.”  Then it will be time to cut the whole thing open and try it on!…. before starting the sleeves and front bands.

It’s almost Easter, and that feels very strange.  During this time away I have missed both my sons’ birthdays as well as Easter.  It’s the first time to miss these occasions with family, and I have to say it is decidedly a drag…  Well, I guess there has to be a little rain on our parade…

The Second Time Around

We are hearing from other sailors that this has been a challenging winter in the Bahamas with lots of unsettled weather bringing strong winds here. I am relieved to here that it isn’t always this blustery down here!

We are back in Little Farmers’ Cay, and it is an entirely different experience the second time around.  What a lovely spot when the winds are calm.

The water is so calm it seems that Pandora is floating on air above the sea life right below us.  There are beautiful turtles here, large rays, lots of purple sea fans, brain coral and other reef life that I cannot name!  The fish are darting in and out of the reefs, and it’s all on display all around us.  We don’t even need to use our glass bottom bucket!

Yesterday we did some exploring by dinghy and found some wonderful shells on a couple of beaches, and also visited the turtles that live in the grasses in a little  bay, as well as the fisherman cleaning the day’s catch which attracted all the rays.

I also spent the morning weaving my third palm frond coiled basket.  Here are my finished second and third baskets.  The first basket will never be photographed!

Now that I’ve taken these photos, I realize that I should have included something to give them scale.  They are small, about 3″ in diameter.  This basket has a small shell sewn into the inner bottom and a little piece of coral tied to the outside.

We have started looking at various plans for getting home later this spring.    If all goes according to my wishes, I’ll be home just in time to participate in the end of year party with my weaving group as well as the final meeting of the year of my weavers’ guild!  I’m keeping my fingers crossed!  And Bob is beginning to build his case for sailing to Maine this summer.  He has enlisted the help of my little sheep friends.  Boy, he drives a hard bargain.

I had my first bad migraine since leaving the US last night.  A scary thing, wondering if my medication would work and what I might do if it didn’t.  It was a bad one, so today I will take it easy…. and enjoy the beautiful skies!

A Return to Luxury

Cat Island is a lovely place!  It is what I thought all of the Bahamas would be….open air causal resorts with a border of pearly powdered beach on a calm bay of aquamarine water!  It is absolutely idyllic here!

We walked up Mount Alvernia this morning to visit Father Jerome’s Hermitage.

On the walk up the craggy limestone path he installed carvings to depict the stations of the cross.  Something to ponder as you make your ascent.

I don’t know at what scale the Hermitage was built; it is small, but large enough for one man in each room.

The rooms are a sanctuary, an outer all purpose type room, a sleeping room, and in a separate building out of sight from the main building was a small kitchen room.  The rooms of the main building are connected by outer courtyards and a small hallway.  The whole thing is built into the limestone at the top of the hill, so each room is on a slightly different level and required some stone steps to be built.

There were a few explanatory glazed tiles that I thought were beautiful.

It is a lovely spot…. I bet sunsets and sunrises would be pretty spectacular from this spot, and we could see Pandora sitting at anchor in the large bowl of the bay through the archway.

Midday we returned to Pandora and up anchored to head around the point to a smaller anchorage in Fernandez Bay.  What a spot this is!  We are almost all the way to the beach, and awaiting our arrival are two perfectly tropical resorts, complete with outdoor terraces for dining and open sided grass hut bars.  The sand is white, the breeze is refreshing, and I just know I’m going to love the rum punch!

Here is the view we had while eating our al fresco lunch.  Pandora is the white-hulled boat, and the the dark-hulled boat is Ariel with our friends Miles and Lareen onboard.

We had lunch on the tiled floor terrace of one resort, and I was barefoot since I’d walked in from the beach where we landed our dinghy.  It just doesn’t get much more decadent than that.  We will have dinner at HoppInn resort this evening.  I think there will be lobster bisque on the menu tonight!  Lucky me!

….And it was a lovely evening with a view of the sunset from our outdoor dining room.

Onboard Projects

Almost daily someone asks me why I’m sailing around without a loom.  It’s surprising how many people know about the little looms you might consider for traveling.  Inkle looms, tablets, little pot holder looms, and of course(!) rigid heddle looms.  What surprises me more than their knowledge of little looms, is their conviction that anyone could be perfectly satisfied with such equipment.  I simply cannot figure out how to describe why I haven’t got a rigid heddle loom onboard.  They all seem to think I just haven’t considered my options well enough.

I mean, really… I do have two drop spindles with me, and I enjoy using them!  But I would not have a rigid heddle loom with me.  I simply cannot explain that to myself yet, much less to anyone else.

Meanwhile, I have taken up my “Mary Tudor” sweater again, and it is a very satisfying and fulfilling project.  Alice Starmore really nails it every time with her designs.  They make so much sense, knitterly, that they practically knit themselves. If I understood why I’d be a prolific designer myself!  In spite of her reputation for complicated patterns, I find that I barely have to look at the charts…. well, I do look at the beginning of each row (I wouldn’t want to lead you astray on that!)…but really, her charted designs are so artistic while also being so logical, that myopic chart reading is really not required.  I’m above the armholes now, about halfway to the shoulder shaping.  I am loving every minute of it!

On one of our recent walks on Long Island, Bob very nicely collected some Silver Queen palm spears for me.  Spears are what I am calling the new shoot of palm frond that rises out of the center of the plant.  I visited with basket maker Nancy on Trumpeter, and she very generously guided me as I started 8 baskets.  When I explained to her that beginnings and endings are the crucial bits of learning any new technique, she was all about helping me learn the beginning at least!  She had a basket ready for ending so she showed me one ending.  I have now completed my first basket by myself, and it’s nothing to write home about.  In fact, I’m not even sure it’s worth keeping!  But for the moment, it is my vessel for holding all the chaff I cut off the fronds before weaving.  Maybe I’ll throw it overboard when I throw out all the chaff…

A few shots from our palm frond foraging!

There are wild and domestic goats everywhere!

And even on these desert islands, we find a few things in bloom.

My most recent cache of shells and sea glass drying in the cockpit.  Even when I’m looking for palm fronds, shells are always part of the foraging.

We up anchored today and headed north for Cat Island.  I did weave for a while before sea sickness overtook me.  Ugh.  My second basket shows a litte more promise.  I spent most of the trip sleeping after taking a half dose of Stugeron.  It was a long day of over 60 miles. At an average of 6 miles per hour sailing, it took us 10 hours to get here!  A bit slower than travel by car!  After the beautiful aquamarine waters of the harbors, ocean sailing in the Atlantic with depths of 6,000 feet gave us deep indigo water with white foam on the wave crests.

Cat Island looks quite intriguing.  Father Jerome’s Hermitage is at the top of the highest hill here, called Mount Alvernia.  That hill of about 260 feet elevation is the highest spot in all the Bahamas!  On the summit he built a monastery called the Hermitage.  From the harbor it looks like it’s sitting atop a huge mountain.  I understand you can walk up to it in about 15 minutes, so that means something is very wrong with the perspective.  I think it’s a fairly well kept secret that it’s all smaller than it appears from the harbor.  I think no one wants to give away this little secret so the surprise isn’t spoiled.  But if you can walk up to it in 15 minutes, it can’t possibly be as imposing as it appears from here!

Father Jerome was an Englishman, born in the 2nd half of the 19th century, who was an architect, and an Anglican, before becoming a Catholic monk.  He enjoyed designing churches on many islands here in the Bahamas in the early 20th century.  In fact, the photos of the beautiful church in Clarencetown on Long Island was one of Father Jerome’s accomplishments. He built some churches along with the hermitage and his retirement home on Cat Island.  I hope to have detailed photos tomorrow when we visit.

We are anchored right near the Batelco (Bahamas Telephone Company) cell tower on Cat Island and are making good use of some unsecured internet with our wifi booster.   Life is good!

Pandora’s journey is still here!

 

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