ArgoKnot

Riding Out the Storm in the Lap of Luxury

We are awaiting the coming storm at the stunning resort at Highbourne Cay.  We had a lovely afternoon and evening here yesterday, and today promises to be equally nice in spite of the rising winds.

I am having my morning coffee now while looking out at the palm trees that are bending dramatically in the rising wind.  This is the first truly cloudy day I have seen in the three months I’ve been down here.  In that same three months we have had only one brief, 10-minute rain squall.  Later today should bring some squalls, but many times there is no precipitation, so I’m curious to see what will happen later.  We’d love a little rain to wash away some of the salt on our decks!  Right now we have ‘deck shoes’ and ‘going ashore’ shoes, and we try very hard not to wear them into the cockpit and certainly not down below!  Keeping Pandora ship shape and salt free is always the top priority!

I feel very lucky to be here right now, and when we arrived we were the only sailboat here in a snug harbor full of mega yachts.  Later in the day another sailboat arrived, so now there are two of us.  And that will be it since the docks are full.  We definitely feel like the country cousins here!

Everything on this island is meticulously groomed by the resort, so although the island is covered in native plantings, it has definite look of being beautifully maintained.  People arrive here by either helicopter or seaplane.  In fact, as we entered the harbor yesterday a seaplane was landing right beside us!  That’s the first time we’ve given way to a plane rather than another boat!  There is a little launch that goes out to meet the plane and pick up the passengers!  Wow…

The beaches are also groomed here.  Someone rakes the beach every day (must be in the middle of the night though because you’ll never see them) and there are umbrellas and Adirondack chairs every few yards, spaced just far enough apart to give everyone their privacy.

In early evening we took our cocktails, a gin and tonic for me and a Dark and Stormy for Bob, to the beach and sat in the Adirondack chairs watching a gaggle of adolescents ride their ‘skim boards’ in the surf.

We had dinner in the restaurant, Xuma, that overlooks the Bahamas Banks.  There was a film crew making a promotional video for the resort,  taking footage of the sunset from the best table on the balcony.  They set up their Go-Pro on the railing of the balcony, and then the table was ours!  It was a stunning sunset with the coming storm clouds massing in the sky.  And dinner was delicious!   Bob and I shared some conch fritters, a roasted beet and goat cheese salad, and a Bahamian risotto dinner of prawns, scallops and a spiny lobster tail.  I did get another lobster dinner!

Today is cool and very humid with coming storm.  We will walk to the ocean beach today.  It is 2 miles long and gets raked each day.  I will probably take my latest knitting project and we’ll bring a picnic lunch.  I have finished the body of my ‘Mary Tudor’ and will probably put it aside until I get home.  It is time to cut open the front and the armholes, and I haven’t got any sharp scissors on board.  Better to wait until I have the proper tools.

Knowing that whatever I work on now will probably end up on the plane with me when I fly home (in 34 days!!), I looked through my stash with an eye for something portable.  About five years ago I started a traditional circular shawl from the Orkney Islands in an online workshop led by Elizabeth Lovick (http://www.northernlace.co.uk/).  I put it down for what I thought would be a brief hiatus, and then I lost it!  I did look for it several times over the years, but I didn’t find it until we moved to Connecticut and I began unpacking my stash.  I was happy to find it and put into the bins I brought onboard last fall.  It’s time has come!  Although I am not using the traditional Shetland lace yarn for this shawl, I am using something that seems very appropriate to me!  Quite a long time ago my English friend Lesley took me to Uppinham Yarns in ….  and among the many things that tempted me was a stunning cone of fine wool and cashmere in a wonderful shade of heathered claret red.  I’m happy to be reunited with this project!

Dinner tonight won’t be Xuma, but it should still be memorable.  We bought some Strawberry Grouper filets yesterday from a fisherman cleaning his catch on the docks.  There are fresh veggies at the resort market, so we will also have a salad! …the first in about 2 weeks!  What a luxury!

The Lion Still Roars

We’re three days into April and there is no sign yet of gentle spring weather down here.  In fact, it’s going to get a lot worse before there is any hope of calm seas and light breezes…

We spent Easter weekend in the Exuma Land and Sea Park at Warderick Wells.  It is a land and sea life refuge so it is teeming with lots of sea life on beautiful coral reefs, beaches full of beautiful shells, banana twits that are so tame they will land on your hand, just to name a few what constitutes abundant life down here!  There are lots of trails to walk which change from fine sugar sand to the strange, lava-like limestone that looks and feels more like walking on rusted iron.   The limestone islands of the Exuma cays have been created through a build-up of calcium carbonate from the rise and fall of sea levels, along with wind and rain.  Over thousand of years these conditions have eroded the limestone into pits that can be quite large and deep.

The park ranger Andrew and his partner Jennifer hosted a wonderful Easter dinner at midday on Sunday, and one of the visiting boaters held a sunrise service on Booboo Hill, the highest place on the island.  It is not a high summit, but the walk still has its challenges due to the nature of the limestone crags.

About 40 people went to the Easter dinner held in the park ranger’s lovely house that has stunning views of both the Atlantic Ocean and the Great Bahamas Bank.

There are other islands in the Exuma Park, and on Monday we sailed north to Shroud Cay where I have now seen my first Tropical Long Birds!  They are stunning!  I hurled myself all over a bouncing Pandora to try to capture them on film!  They make a wonderful squeaking call that I have enjoyed hearing!  In fact, I tend to hear them before I can see them!

Shroud Cay is known for its mangrove swamps, and at high tide we took the dink through the maze of mangroves and eventually made it out to the ocean side of the island where we walked along a 2 mile deserted beach.  This is the stuff of daydreams…

But back to the weather… weather is the defining force of our trip down here.  According to more seasoned sailors who have spent many winters down here, this has been the most challenging winter in about a decade.  There are almost no harbors that offer 360-degree protection in quickly changing weather, so each day sailors must gather what information they can and try to pick a destination that offers the most protection.  There is a big storm coming Friday that will give us sustained winds of 50 knots with gusts going to around 70 knots.  Yikes!

We’ve got our plan in place and hopefully we’ll be snug and safe in Highbourne Cay.  The frosting on the cake (for me) is that there is an excellent restaurant there, so at least I’ll be dining in style during the blow.

There is internet at Highborne, so I’m looking forward to catching up on blogs I love to visit and checking on what friends are posting on Facebook, and making phone calls!  And I will make my travel plans for heading home….37 days to go!

You can track our location here.

In Like a Lamb

We hear that the weather has been quite challenging along the East Coast of the US, but here in the Bahamas spring is hardly different than winter!  We have had some challenging winds down here this winter, and since that has not yet stopped perhaps that is our ‘lion.’

During the most recent week of strong winds, we have been in a little archipelago of islands that include Compass Cay, Pipe Cay, Little Pipe Cay, Thomas Cay, and Joe Cay. These little islands are either uninhabited or privately owned by very wealthy individuals, so there is no going ashore and no provisions. Everyday we visit at least one new beach, each with its own marvels. There are more beaches than I can count, as well as a beautiful mangrove swamp that we explored at low tide.  Pandora may have a more pronounced starboard list due to my shell collecting!

Now aren’t you just dying to see these starfish in more detail??  The local name for them is ‘cushion star,’ and they come in differing patterns of gold and deep red.  The patterns and colors strongly remind me of stitched shibori on fabric first dyed a light Brazilwood , then stitched and dipped into a deep madder bath.  They are truly stunning!

While we’ve been here I have spent my mornings knitting or weaving  baskets, then after lunch Bob and I go exploring.  We relax in the evenings and often share dinners with our friends aboard Ariel.

My basket collection is growing…. I have given away the bigger basket in this group, and I plan to continue making a number of the smaller ones.  They are just the right size for a votive candle, and the candlelight makes interesting patterns as it shines through the coiled stitches.

I am just a few rows away from the shoulder shaping on “Mary Tudor.”  Then it will be time to cut the whole thing open and try it on!…. before starting the sleeves and front bands.

It’s almost Easter, and that feels very strange.  During this time away I have missed both my sons’ birthdays as well as Easter.  It’s the first time to miss these occasions with family, and I have to say it is decidedly a drag…  Well, I guess there has to be a little rain on our parade…

The Second Time Around

We are hearing from other sailors that this has been a challenging winter in the Bahamas with lots of unsettled weather bringing strong winds here. I am relieved to here that it isn’t always this blustery down here!

We are back in Little Farmers’ Cay, and it is an entirely different experience the second time around.  What a lovely spot when the winds are calm.

The water is so calm it seems that Pandora is floating on air above the sea life right below us.  There are beautiful turtles here, large rays, lots of purple sea fans, brain coral and other reef life that I cannot name!  The fish are darting in and out of the reefs, and it’s all on display all around us.  We don’t even need to use our glass bottom bucket!

Yesterday we did some exploring by dinghy and found some wonderful shells on a couple of beaches, and also visited the turtles that live in the grasses in a little  bay, as well as the fisherman cleaning the day’s catch which attracted all the rays.

I also spent the morning weaving my third palm frond coiled basket.  Here are my finished second and third baskets.  The first basket will never be photographed!

Now that I’ve taken these photos, I realize that I should have included something to give them scale.  They are small, about 3″ in diameter.  This basket has a small shell sewn into the inner bottom and a little piece of coral tied to the outside.

We have started looking at various plans for getting home later this spring.    If all goes according to my wishes, I’ll be home just in time to participate in the end of year party with my weaving group as well as the final meeting of the year of my weavers’ guild!  I’m keeping my fingers crossed!  And Bob is beginning to build his case for sailing to Maine this summer.  He has enlisted the help of my little sheep friends.  Boy, he drives a hard bargain.

I had my first bad migraine since leaving the US last night.  A scary thing, wondering if my medication would work and what I might do if it didn’t.  It was a bad one, so today I will take it easy…. and enjoy the beautiful skies!

A Return to Luxury

Cat Island is a lovely place!  It is what I thought all of the Bahamas would be….open air causal resorts with a border of pearly powdered beach on a calm bay of aquamarine water!  It is absolutely idyllic here!

We walked up Mount Alvernia this morning to visit Father Jerome’s Hermitage.

On the walk up the craggy limestone path he installed carvings to depict the stations of the cross.  Something to ponder as you make your ascent.

I don’t know at what scale the Hermitage was built; it is small, but large enough for one man in each room.

The rooms are a sanctuary, an outer all purpose type room, a sleeping room, and in a separate building out of sight from the main building was a small kitchen room.  The rooms of the main building are connected by outer courtyards and a small hallway.  The whole thing is built into the limestone at the top of the hill, so each room is on a slightly different level and required some stone steps to be built.

There were a few explanatory glazed tiles that I thought were beautiful.

It is a lovely spot…. I bet sunsets and sunrises would be pretty spectacular from this spot, and we could see Pandora sitting at anchor in the large bowl of the bay through the archway.

Midday we returned to Pandora and up anchored to head around the point to a smaller anchorage in Fernandez Bay.  What a spot this is!  We are almost all the way to the beach, and awaiting our arrival are two perfectly tropical resorts, complete with outdoor terraces for dining and open sided grass hut bars.  The sand is white, the breeze is refreshing, and I just know I’m going to love the rum punch!

Here is the view we had while eating our al fresco lunch.  Pandora is the white-hulled boat, and the the dark-hulled boat is Ariel with our friends Miles and Lareen onboard.

We had lunch on the tiled floor terrace of one resort, and I was barefoot since I’d walked in from the beach where we landed our dinghy.  It just doesn’t get much more decadent than that.  We will have dinner at HoppInn resort this evening.  I think there will be lobster bisque on the menu tonight!  Lucky me!

….And it was a lovely evening with a view of the sunset from our outdoor dining room.

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