ArgoKnot

Great Harbour Cay

Great Harbour Cay is the major island in the north Berry Islands, which lie between the  Abacos to the north and the Exuma chain to the south. The Berry Islands are a stirrup shaped chain of thirty large cays and numerous small cays, totaling about thirty-two miles in length. The red bubble marks where we are located, at Great Harbor Cay Marina.

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There are very few protected harbors in the Berries and the Exumas, so I am  happy to be in such a spot, with 360-degree protection during these wild westerly and northwesterly winds that we’ve had for almost a week now.  It’s been blowing hard in general for over a month now, and from a particularly bad direction for boats in the Bahamas.

Look  how tight the cut is for entering the harbor! No matter how rough it is out side the harbor, once you enter the cut (about 40′ wide) you are in safe waters.  Whew!

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The folks who run the marina will do just about anything to make your stay as enjoyable as possible, and several of the locals have small businesses catering to us visiting cruisers.  On Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays a local woman bakes bread and delivers it right to your boat.  She offers a choice of white, whole wheat, cinnamon, coconut, and raisin.  On Wednesday evenings someone takes that same white bread dough and bakes pizzas and calzones that you can order ahead of time.  These also get delivered right to your boat.  Bob and I ordered a calzone last week.  We were told to only order one since it would be too much for just two people.  It was HUGE and fed us for three meals!

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Another night of the week (Fridays?) someone comes to the marina with cold beers and meats to grill for the weekly “Grill and Chill.” There is a women’s lunch outing every Wednesday and the owners of the restaurant come to the marina to pick up the ladies.  There is a similar event for the men called ROMEO (Really Old Men Eating Out).  On Tuesday evenings there is a ‘drink and drift’ where all the participants get in their dinghies, tie themselves together, and drift about in the harbor getting to know each other.  The weather has not cooperated for this since I’ve been here.  On Sundays the local church sends a bus to the marina to pick up anyone who’d like to attend services.  Again, we missed this event because it was too windy to leave Pandora unattended. There is also a Sunday brunch at a local restaurant– weather did not permit doing that either.

Monday evenings are pot luck dinners, and we participated in the one this week in spite of the high winds.  Everyone was clinging to their plates and nothing stayed hot, but it was a lot of fun.

There are all kinds of little get togethers here.  For example, today there was a fund raiser for the school:  a craft project to make your own tropical fish from a coconut hull.  So, while I wrote this blog and baked a loaf of bread, Bob was ashore (under the same pavilion where yesterday I made my warp) with at least a dozen other people, making his coconut fish!

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The pristine beach on the ocean side (eastern) of the island is 3 miles long and boasts beautiful white sand.  There is a beach bar there with a glorious view.

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The beach is about a mile and a half walk from the marina, although on one of our trips we noticed we could take a short cut through the golf course.  Yes, there is a golf course.  Back in the 1960s, when this island was a hopping hot spot for glitterati there was a resort here that boasted an 18-hole course.  The resort has since failed, and the course was in disrepair for years.  Since the renovation of the marina the golf course has been restored to 9 holes.  It makes a lovely walk…

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The one market on the island is also a mile and a half walk from the marina.  In whatever direction you start out walking, it is guaranteed that a number of people in various kinds of vehicles will stop and ask if you’d like a ride.  You really have to want to take a stroll to actually walk all the way anywhere.

The mail boat arrives on Wednesdays, so the best day to shop at the market is on Thursday mornings.  We did not get there that day last week, so the fresh pickings were slim.

The fresh producs.

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The refrigerated items.

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The pantry items.

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There was quite a layer of dust on the some of the staple items, so I’ll be sure to check expiration dates before buying.

Before I arrived, Bob joined one of the excursions on a particularly calm day when the tides were right, for a dinghy trip down one of the mangrove swamps that cuts through the center of the island.  Bob and his brother Bill saw lots of fish and turtles in the mangroves. It’s been the highlight of visiting this island for Bob, and I hope I get a day to take this trip as well.

It’s so rare that Bob and I ever stay in a marina, and this was has been such a great experience, with the friendly islanders and visiting cruisers like us, and protected waters during these violent storms, so this has become one of my favorite places.  This sign at the airport pretty much sums up the camaraderie we’ve found here.  I’ll definitely look forward to coming back.

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Therapies

It was such a wonderful experience to arrive in Great Harbor Cay to soft warm breezes and brilliant sunshine. We had a couple of days of magnificent sunrises and sunsets—just what I needed. Since then it’s been gale force winds and ominous skies. Offshore the winds have been very high indeed, around 70 mph. Numerous friends have written to tell me about the cruise ship that got stuck in these winds and had to confine all passengers to their cabins while the ship returned to the US.

So, after getting somewhat used to this violent weather and calming down that Pandora was not going to rip herself right off the dock, I have picked up some projects again. I am about three rings and chains from finishing my little tatted lace trim. Maybe tonight I’ll be able to sew it to my t-shirt. Fingers crossed on that.

Yesterday, I took my copper pipe loom ashore to warp it (far too bouncy onboard for such a task). Bob rigged up a brilliantly technical, Rube Goldberg arrangement for clamping the edge of my loom to a picnic table. It involved two clamps, a length of webbing with a small clasp at one end such as is used for tying things to the roof of a car, and then a length of plain webbing and length of line (nauticalese for rope).

Can you see that Bob attached one clamp to the picnic table and then used the 2nd clamp to attach the corner of the loom to the first clamp.  So clever…. To minimize the torquing of the loom he has the car webbing running from the long bar of the 1st clamp to the other end of the picnic table.  The 2nd webbing is bracing the bottom corner of the loom to the picnic table.2-10-16a 001It was quite an engineering feat, and in the end, I was able to warp the loom all by myself while Bob walked to the market on the island. With my spool of seine twine in a bucket and tensioned by going over the brace of a picnic table nearby, I was able to use one hand to keep the tension on the warp while making wraps of warp with the other hand. I was done in less than hour!

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All finished warping.  Then I sat down for a bit to space the warp threads evenly and weave a header that will support the beginning of the woven tapestry.  Does it look cold?  It certainly was!  The wind was blowing about 30 mph and the resultant wind chill was very un-tropical!

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Here is the cartoon I’ll be using for this project. It’s the final line from one of my favorite Robert Frost poems, and it happens to be a favorite with our younger son as well. This tapestry is for him. In this photo I am measuring for possible border sizes.

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Meanwhile, in my inbox yesterday I found a message from a friend alerting me to a post on Weavetech that she knew I’d be interested in reading. Now that internet is not a ‘given’ for us I have dropped the daily digest format, so I would never have seen this post without the ‘heads up!’ from my friend.

It turns out there is a new book out by Oxford Press about two subjects very dear to me: ancient Greece and weaving. Being a Greek student in college is what led me to weaving in the first place– 40 years ago. It was the connection between text and textile that brought me to weaving, and now 4 decades later a few people are looking at the connections between the words for various parts of early Greek ships and words used in weaving terminology. And now that I spend such a great deal of time living onboard my own little vessel (though not a ship) I am naturally curious to learn more about these findings.

The book is originally in German, and published by an English publisher (Oxbow) with a division in the US.  You can find it online here.  Surely it must also be available in English, especially since the title is translated –I am certainly counting being able to order an English translation.

Weben und Bewebe in der Antike: Materialitat–Reprasentation–Episteme–Metapoetick
(Texts and Textiles in the Ancient World: Materiality–Representation–Episteme–Metapoetics)
Henriette Harich-Schwarzbauer (Author)

What I got to read, through the post on WeaveTech, is an article taken from the book, written by Marie-Louise Nosch and published on a website called www.academia.edu

Though I could not find the article by searching that site (maybe you will have better luck), the woman who posted on WeaveTech sent me a pdf. I’d like to post it here, but will first find out if I need permission for that. Stay tuned. It is a compelling study of the words for various parts of a sailing and rowing ship being the same as words used in both spinning and weaving. Since textile production is an older technology, it is presumed that the words used in ship building and  sailing terms were borrowed from textile terms, due to textile’s prominent connection to ships, ship building, and the act of sailing or rowing.

And on a calmer day Bob and I took a walk on the pristine beach at Great Harbor Cay.

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Defining Moments

Life took a strange and dark turn 2 weeks ago, and I left Florida to fly home.  I went home to be with my oldest friend as she entered a very dark period of her life.  She has lost someone very dear, someone who was dear to me as well.

During the past weeks I have watched my friend navigate very troubled waters with a strength and grace I did not know she has.  You can always learn something new about anyone, no matter how long you’ve known them.  She has become an inspiration for me.  Life throws unspeakable challenges at us, but I’ve learned a lot from my friend’s deep, still waters.

Along the way I’ve finished reading The Paper Garden, a biography of the 18th c. female artist, Mary Delany.  The author, Molly Peacock, was known more for her poetry than her prose, until she wrote this book.  The book is so popular now that the British Museum has had to limit access to Mary Delany’s paper collages in order to preserve them from the sudden rise in people requesting to see them.

My friend has been an artist since before I met her.  Growing up together, she painted and drew while I wrote things and dabbled in handwork.  Later she began sculpting and got her fine arts degree in that medium.  This quote from The Paper Garden makes me wonder where my friend’s artwork will go next:

Black pigment is made from charred organic matter—and that includes burnt bones. This chilling fact contributes to the black background of Mrs. D’s Rosa Gallica… Not that burnt bones necessarily produced the pigment that Mrs. D. used to create the black backgrounds of her flowers—her pigment could have been made from tar, pitch, lampblack, pine soot, anything charred to get a noir so deep it looks as if it came from the mouth of Hades. But whatever the composition of the dry crystals she ground with a mortar and pestle, then mixed with liquid and adhesive, its source is something burnt. Carbon. Organic. Ashes. Is being burnt a requisite for the making of art? Personally, I don’t think it is. But art is a poultice for a burn. It is a privilege to have, somewhere within you, a capacity for making something speak from your own seared experience.

So, for me, regular life begins to lurch along once again.  I am back in the Bahamas with Bob, in a beautiful spot that we have not visited before called Great Harbor Cay.  When we left the harbor for a short sail yesterday, three dolphins found us and played in our bow wave.

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The sunsets have been stunning, the Bahamians are the friendliest people I have ever met, the cruisers have been pretty friendly too, and Bob is letting me rest.  The days are warm and slow.

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My biggest wish is that my friend could switch places with me.  I would take a couple weeks of her grieving and the growing responsibilities she has taken on to care for others in her family, while she could spend some time here– healing.  Life is so thoroughly unfair….

 

Change of Plans

Today was the day we’d planned to sail to the Berry Islands in the Bahamas, to Great Harbor Cay which has a rather nice marina. Anyway, as luck would have it the weather window is not great, with winds from the east that are low enough for motoring, although this landlubber doesn’t do well motoring straight into waves stirred up by 15 mph winds. And the window is short. By tomorrow the winds will be much stronger, so we decided to wait for what may prove to be a gentler and longer weather window at the end of the weekend. Beside, we don’t have our funds for Cuba entirely set in place, and Bob has one more form to submit for our permissions for Cuba. Every time we think we’re finished we hear about one more thing….we wonder if this is truly the ‘last’ thing—sending our forms to the Coast Guard.

In the meantime, Bob has checked that he has all the necessary courtesy flags for the countries we’ll be visiting. The other day he spread them all out to photograph them, and my heart jumped! Are we really going to all those countries??? That will be quite off the deep end for me–all that ocean in between each island, each passage requiring sailing overnight.

So, in case these flags are unfamiliar to you, I’ll name them, clockwise from upper left (the center flag is our yacht club burgee which we’ll fly in each country):  Cuba, Jamaica, Cayman Islands, and Bahamas.  Like I said, YIKES!!

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I’m finally to the point of enjoying the process of tatting. It has become quite relaxing for the most part. I still can’t get my picots even and I still have some awkward moments, but less and less. I do a little each morning while having coffee and then again in the evening after dinner. It’s definitely easier in the morning in good sunlight! I now have 50 rings and 50 chains!  I have a little gadget to measure the distance for even picots, but I just cannot manage that thing yet! With the ring around one hand and the shuttle in the other hand, where’s my 3rd hand for that little gadget??

And speaking of tatting—I just love having beautiful accessories for all my projects. I have some wonderful, handmade bags that people have given me over the past few years, and I love to keep my little projects in them. The felted bag is from Latvia. The embroidered bag is new this week! It’s from France and was sent to me by a wonderful friend in England who knows how much I love special little textiles of any sort. It’s very special to me, and now it holds my tatting project. The knitted bag is also new, and was given to me as a kit by another friend who knows me well. She knew I’d love the bag, and she also knew I’d want to knit it and embellish it myself.

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Lastly, I have a picture of Bob and our friend Linda who now lives in Florida. When she moved down here over a decade ago, we gave her an offshoot from a banana tree that we bought back in the early 70s, when Bob and I were newly dating. It’s an OLD banana tree now! Linda’s offshoot has now grown bigger than ours ever did. It is very happy in Florida and has spread into a little grove of banana trees in her tropical garden. The day I took this photo there were at least three pendulous flowers, with more bananas than I could count! You can see one of the flower stalks right behind Linda on the left side.

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So, while we’re not sailing (which is mostly fine with me!) we are enjoying the sights of Florida and I’m becoming a better tatter.  Nattering and tattering…

 

 

Celebrations

It’s Tuesday afternoon.  Bob and I are sitting in a Starbucks in Ft. Lauderdale while he downloads new charts for Cuba and updates his ‘Active Captain’ app.  I am looking through photos from 2015 and realizing how much we celebrated over the past 6 months.  It was a very celebratory year, and my 60th birthday (just a few days ago) finished up the family milestones as the new year begins.

After Bob turned 60 in June (I was busy cooking and did not get any photos), I had some wonderful old friends visit in July.  We’ve known each other for about 25 years, and we made plans to spend part of our weekend going to the NEWS (New England Weavers Seminar) conference in Northampton….. 4 women of a certain age going to a weaving conference!  It was awesome! Here we are at dinner in Middletown on our way back to my house.

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Then came our older son’s wedding in August.  We almost never get photos of our two sons together.  It was a rare and wonderful moment.

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Right before Thanksgiving, Bob threw me an early birthday party since it was going to be one of those once a decade birthdays, and I would not be able to see my friends and family when the actual birthday happened.  Here is chef Michael, just starting the hot hors doeuvres before dinner.  What a night!

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A photo with one of my old friends and three of my new friends–all weavers!

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Michael is about to cut the cake…

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And my favorite pairing:  white wine and chocolate cake!

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A few days before my real birthday last week, Bob and I had a marvelous dinner at Pistache in West Palm Beach.  This photo is all about the dinner: duck breast in cherry sauce with truffle polenta…and the harbor park in the background.

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While we are waiting for the weather window to sail to the Bahamas, I’ve been slowly honing my tatting skills.  I’m definitely improving…and now I’ve got enough tatting to go across the back of my green T-shirt and start going down one side of the front V-neck!  Only about a million more little rings and chains to go!

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I worked on it a bit this morning before we came ashore.

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