Yesterday was quite eventful on Rum Cay. Due to weather, the mail boat was a day late in arriving. Bob and I happened to walk into the small center of town as we saw the mail boat approaching in the distance, threading its way through the maze of coral reefs as we’d done just a few days ago.
The mail boat carries everything needed on the island, including passengers. It had left from Nassau two days previously and had stopped at other islands along the way. The folks returning to Rum Cay had to spend one night on board, on a boat that does not have staterooms. We heard that cots are set up for people who want to sleep, and the most surprising part to me was that there is no gangway for embarking and disembarking! We watched the well-dressed Bahamian travelers hurl themselves over the high bulwarks and down onto the docks. Others were waiting to leave and I did not get to see how they clambered over the high sides of this small freighter. …with luggage no less!
There was a boom and crane on the bow of the ship, and lots of supplies were off loaded: crates and boxes, large items encased in plastic wrap, plenty of smaller items. I sat in the town square as the boat approached the “government dock,” and within a matter of minutes people were arriving to meet the boat by all manner of transportation… cars, bicycles, on foot. Even the island dogs were arriving one at a time from their various locations. Most people brought large plastic bins with them to collect their provisions. Two large trucks with open flat beds backed down that dock to collect provisions for the “Last Chance Food Store” and the police department which got quite a supply of new office furniture.
The most interesting item to me that came off the ship was a large bag of dry cleaning that the police chief picked up personally. It looked like a week’s worth of uniforms. No wonder Bahamians always look so crisp and natty in their uniforms! The dry cleaning came all the way from Nassau!
We followed the white truck to the grocery store and watched as various men carried boxes of fresh produce inside. One of our companions was pretty sure he saw a box of avocados, and I almost swooned at the thought of having a couple of those! I saw a huge bag of carrots, a 50 lb. bag of potatoes, and another one of onions. I had designs on some of those carrots! But…after the provisions were taken inside, the owner came out and locked the door to the store! We were all in shock, but I then realized that none of the locals were waiting nearby, only us visitors. I asked the shop owner when she would be open for business, and she said not until the next day….not sure exactly what time, maybe noon-ish! Oh well, I was a bit despondent walking back to the marina without any avocados.
But then another wonderful island event was underway!… preparations for the marina owner Bobby’s birthday! What a bash that was! The younger cruisers were out during midday catching fresh fish. They returned with two giant lobsters, a large grouper, and a huge octopus. Bobby had ordered a large supply of ribs that were delivered on the mail boat. All of us cruising visitors were asked to bring side dishes. The festivities started at 6.30.
Bobby cut up the grouper quite fine and mixed in various other ingredients to make ‘fishballs’ which then got sautéed in oil. I think they were the hit of the meal, better even than the lobsters!
Amazingly, Bobby’s teenage son who lives with his mother arrived from some other island on the mail boat. And two older women arrived all the way from Norway (via New York and then Cleveland and Nassau) at the small airstrip on the island! One of these women is the mother of Bobby’s current partner and she had traveled all the way here with a good friend. It had been their first visit to the US and New York, and now their first visit to the Bahamas. They left from Oslo wearing their winter clothes, spent three days in New York, then were surprised to find Cleveland every bit as cold as home, and then on to the Bahamas where as the night progressed they shed more and more layers. I enjoyed talking to them and to the locals and other sailors who all came to celebrate. It was quite the cultural event! We ate in the dining room of the now defunct restaurant. The two Norwegian visitors are at the right of the photo.
The wonderful bar is curved and has a mosaic counter with a great mural along the base.
The evening ended with a big bonfire on the beach. My stamina for partying gave out before that! But, just before sunset, as party preparations were in full swing, Bob got this photo of one of the younger cruisers bringing a cache of firewood to the beach for the bonfire.
And now it’s the day after, and everyone is a bit subdued…. the air is warm and still and everyone is a bit drained from last night’s excesses! Well, except for that young crowd who have gone off in their dinghies looking to surf. Bobby has chosen a piece of coral that he will carve for me. Hopefully I will photograph the transformation!
