ArgoKnot

sailing

Into the Final Month

We’ve spent the last three days or so sailing, and sailing hard.   It’s not much fun when the wind is ahead of the beam, which means we are sailing into it.  Pandora goes like a bat out of hell, but heeling a lot, and that means sailing hard on her side.  Since this is also our home, it’s not much fun to have all our stuff bashed about hard to one side.  We batten things down, and put away as much as we can, but I can still hear all the stuff in the cabinets tumbling around.  There is precious little glass onboard, as you can imagine!

The sights are lovely, as you can see, but the wind continues to be challenging.  We have spent the past three days with some wonderful friends on board a very comfortable catamaran called Nati.  And we’ve just said goodbye to other dear friends on Ariel.  That’s life onboard.  Unlike living on land, when your house location changes all the time, your friends change too.  Luckily, we bump into friends now and then all along the way.

A day spent on Joe’s Sound with our friends from Nati.  We walked some beautiful white beaches, dinghied into mangrove flats, and had a lovely dinner of perch from a lake in the Adirondacks that Anne and Dick cooked up for us. How amazing is that?  They had a friend visit who brought them frozen perch, and venison that he had killed himself while hunting and fishing in the Adirondacks.  What luck for us to get to have some perch!

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We are back in Thompson Bay, planning to go ashore shortly for a walk and ending with happy hour and hamburgers at the Long Island Breeze.  Tomorrow we have reserved a car and will do a little touring of the southern part of the island, ending the day with dinner at Chez Pierre, a bit north of here, where we had a lovely dinner watching the sun set last year.  I have high hopes for an equally great dinner and sunset there tomorrow evening!

Chez Pierre 2As usual, when when the winds are calm I try to weave….  slow, but steady progress on my ‘toyland.’

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt is 31 days until I fly home.  I wonder what this last month on board will bring…..hopefully some long awaited fair weather and calm seas!

Dry Cleaning, Cruiser Style

We have left the Exumas and headed east into the Atlantic to some of the islands we visited last year.  We are currently on Long Island, a far cry from the island of the same name we are so familiar with!

Ocean Breeze resort is one of the places where cruisers flock to do their laundry.  It’s a pristine little resort, and the laundry room is spotless. You can sit on a deck overlooking Thompson Bay drinking a cold beverage or even having lunch as you do laundry.

Bahamas Ocean Breeze Long Island

Last year, while I waited for my wash, I met Nancy from Trumpeter who took an hour or so to teach me how to make the local basket which is a tightly coiled technique using Silver Queen palm fronds.  We have bumped into them again this year! Here! How serendipitous!  Nancy makes about 100 baskets each season and delivers them to school children back in the US, when she and her husband George do a program on cultural differences.  This year she has made a wedding present basket that is truly amazing.  I hope to get a photo, but for now here is a photo from last year when Nancy was patiently instructing me.

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So….back to laundry.  This is one of those places I count on.  Yesterday morning Bob had already taken the sheets off the bed when a little voice told me I should call Ocean Breeze on VHF radio, and when I did I learned that their water maker is not functioning so there is no laundry available!  Oh no!  That made me realize a few things:  first, I have thought that water makers have made life on these islands so much easier.  While people still do collect water in cisterns, mostly during the hurricane season, and ration water at all times whether from the water maker or from the cistern, I never thought how fragile it is to rely on these modern conveniences.  When mechanical things break down out here it is not so simple to make repairs.  So, Ocean Breeze is carefully rationing their water now.

So that brings me to dry cleaning.  We have heard of this and have now we’ve experienced it!  When cruisers cannot do real laundry they take their sheets and towels and hang them out in the breeze and the sunlight.  I imagine that there is some benefit to this…. clean air and bright sunlight must have some cleaning properties.  Anyway….this was our only option.  Next hope of laundry is either Black Point in the Exumas or Rock Sound on Eluthera.  Must get it done before next guests arrive!

When you visits places like this, you have to expect some inconveniences….like resorting to cruiser style dry cleaning.

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We have had a little tragedy onboard Pandora.  My wonderful little window box, full of very happy plants, fell overboard!  You cannot imagine how sad I am about this.  Whenever we move location we put the window box in a safe place, usually in the dinghy that is up in its davits.   One day, last week we just moved from one side of Elizabeth harbor to the other and we didn’t even give my precious little gems a thought.  I was at the wheel, and I didn’t even see them go over.  My chives had somehow figured out it was spring and were bursting into bloom.  I was looking forward to having the flowers on salads.  The geranium was full of happy red flower heads, and the parsley had gotten quite full and delicious.  We didn’t realize it had all gone overboard until about an hour after anchoring.  Bob took off in the dinghy to see if by chance it was floating in the current.  There was a pretty strong current taking it out to sea, and he only found the empty window box.  The plants had fallen out and probably sank.  I feel just miserable about this.   All the islands and cays down here have such a desert climate that my little window box was quite a bright spot in my days.  I am so sorry about its salty demise. I don’t even have a recent photo of it, but this is from a month ago or so…

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Lastly, I dug out an old sock project that I brought on board.  It is the “skew socks” from Knitty Winter 2009 by Lana Holden.  I am having a great time finishing up this crazily fun design!  The straight sections are basically diagonal knitting , and the shaping of the toe and heel is quite creative!  I don’t even know how I would begin to envision this on my own, but I am certainly having a great time following the directions.  The heel ended up being a flap that jutted out on only one side of the circular row.  After knitting the entire heel flap (which looked nothing like any heel flap I’ve done before!) you put half of the flap on each of two dps and graft them together with a bit of spare yarn.  The working yarn ends up just where you need it to be to continue knitting around minus the heel flap that just got grafted together.  The graft ends up being a vertical line rather than the typical horizontal, and that is part of skewed-ness of the design.

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Five years ago, I posted this photo from the instructions on knitty, and now I am even more smitten by the cute photo and the designer’s sense of humor and love of math!

Knitty skew socks

Hardly Spring

We are into the first week of spring, but it still feels like winter.  We finally made it south to Georgetown on Great Exuma, a great jumping off spot for going further south, but the weather has us pinned here.  Georgetown is the largest settlement in the Exumas by some factor of 10 or so!  It’s where everyone gets last provisions before heading into the remote regions beyond.

So we are wiping through our newly acquired provisions just sitting here in a very bumpy anchorage.  I am surely getting tougher at bumpy conditions, as I attempt to continue work on my little tapestry.

One day, we were visited by this turtle numerous times.  Considering how shy turtles are, how quickly they disappear whenever we reach for our camera, we were amazed that this guy kept diving down and returning to look at us yet again.  He hung out with us for quite a while.  It’s our first successful photo of turtle after years of attempts!    We think this is a green turtle, but what fascinates me about them is how beautifully golden they are.  They seem to have their own light as they glow right below the surface of the beautiful waters here.  I wish we could have captured that in the photo.  You cannot imagine how this guy glowed like golden sunlight as he floated near us.  Stunning!

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Yesterday we spent a little time onshore Stocking Island (across from Great Exuma) and had lunch at St. Francis resort and then a walk on the ocean side beach, where the waves were truly impressive.  Seeing the force of the Atlantic made me quite thankful for our sheltered anchorage, even if it is considerably less ideal that I would prefer!

Here is the view of the anchorage off Stocking Island from St. Francis’s outdoor dining deck.

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A Month Aboard

As I write this Bob is ashore doing our laundry…..yes, it’s almost unbelievable, but I promise….it’s true.  How lucky is that?  We are in Black Point Settlement on Great Guana, where you can get a haircut and do your laundry and have conch fritters, all at the same place that overlooks the little bay where all the boats are anchored. I am suffering from a cold, the last person onboard to get it….just when I thought I had missed the nasty little germ.  So I get to stay aboard and take a nap. Oh well.

This is where you sit to get your haircut while your laundry is going inside

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After Chris left last week we had big plans to sail up to Compass Cay and spend a day or two shelling.  On the morning we wanted to depart our anchor would not come up. While we were wondering what was wrong a large power boat arrived and anchored right next to us…..very close, which worried me because I had a bad feeling we’d get tangled with them undoing our anchor problems.  The short version is that after trying to get the anchor up from different angles, Bob put on his shortie suit and free dived down about 25 feet to take a look.  I have to add that he was in the throes of his own cold then so I know this was not his first choice of how to remedy our situation.  He discovered that the anchor was caught on a limestone ledge.  A second dive allowed him to tie a rope around the anchor (he was intending to pull it out by tying the rope to the dinghy and driving forward), but then, while he was down there, he thought he might as well see if he could just free it  by lifting it with his hands.  That worked….so when he hit the surface he let me know that the anchor was free.

In the fast moving currents, it didn’t take long for us to start skimming our way over to that big powerboat.  So there you go!  I was onboard alone at the wheel, Bob was in the water quickly getting left behind as he struggled into the dinghy and got the dinghy anchor up.  I’m headed toward a 70-foot luxurious powerboat, and I’m dragging along a 65 lb.  Bruce anchor as I go.  Well, it was a lot of excitement, and I’m happy to report that there was no loss of life, or any other irreparable damage.  Whew!

But all the yanking on the Bruce anchor before Bob went down to look a look, did cause some damage…. that long shank on the anchor used to be straight!

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So instead of heading out, we motored a short distance to some nearby moorings and picked up one.  Then Bob spent a couple of hours undoing our damaged Bruce and replacing it with a gargantuan Fortress that we keep onboard as a spare.  By the end of that, with his cold raging, he was too tired to think of going anywhere….and that was fine with me too.  I can only handle so much excitement in one day.

So, when we did finally tear ourselves away from Staniel Cay, we headed south to an idyllic spot that doesn’t seem to attract many visitors.  Lucky us!  We were the only boat at Bitter Guana, and it is quite a spot.  I hope it continues to be unpopular!  We were alone with a stunning white beach, a large limestone outcropping, and about 16 wild iguanas.  The winds have been pretty calm, after a week or so of too much!

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Speaking of wind: I have a love/hate relationship with it.  Yes, a good breeze is just what you need when the temps get in the upper 80s F…. but far too often it just blows too hard down here.  At anchor the boats roll from side to side and buck up and down (at the same time) and it’s about as challenging as being underway in rough conditions.  It’s no fun.  And the sound…. There comes a point when I’d give anything to turn down the volume.  I just want some quiet.  So wind is often the thing that is most challenging.  Anyway…..just had to whine a bit about wind.

We’ve done a little shell collecting and illegal iguana feeding, and I’ve been suffering through my cold.  Last night’s sunset gave us another green flash!  That makes four so far!  Last year we only saw it once!

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA Here’s what you miss when you sleep in due to being in a Nyquil-induced fog.  It turns out there are lots of tropical long tails nesting on Bitter Guana along with the iguanas!  They fly out in formation first thing in the morning and return at dusk.  Sorry I slept in….

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA And about my projects:  things are not as good as I’d first thought.  In fact, I’m wondering if I am going to end up starting every single one of them over.  I guess that’s a bit of an exaggeration.  I do have the one Oktoberfest sock.  And I have these two newly finished embroidery projects.  They hardly count though, because each one only needed a few areas of work to be finished.  I think both these little cross stitch projects have been languishing in a bag for about a decade …. And now they are finished!

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I am on the fence about the tapestry.  It has too much black space, meaning the space between the spools.  That might work out for being at the top of the piece, but it seems to me that the spools on the bottom of a shelf are the ones that are the most crowded and perhaps even squashed into less round shapes.  They are bearing the weight of all the other spools. I realize I could turn the piece upside down when it’s finished, but I’m also not happy with my first two spool colors, which are in the lower left so they would be upper right if I turned it upside down.  I love to blend colors on the bobbin, but now that I’ve done a bit of work on this piece, I think what’s called for is unabashedly blazen, full saturation color.  It’s a very graphic piece, lots of circles and circles within circles, and I think the shapes are quite happy shapes….so it needs happy colors.  I’m not crestfallen about undoing the weaving….I’m just sad that there is so little time when the waters are calm enough to work. It’s a shame to spend a perfect, calm day un-weaving rather than weaving.  Oh well.

When all else fails, I bake!

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We are in the Bahamas!

It was a long night making the crossing to the Bahamas.  I’m very thankful that it was a LOT easier than last year, but there were still a couple of hours of boisterous wind and waves that I could have skipped.  This is the dawn that greeted us after we’d been sailing on the banks for several hours.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis year we cleared in on a small cay in the Berries called Chub Cay.  It doesn’t look at all like the Exumas, being much more lush….rather like the Abacos. Here is the little church at the main cross roads on the island.

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And here is Pandora sitting at anchor while we visited the Chub Cay Club.  Even on a second visit to these waters, I am stunned by how beautiful it is.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA The water all around us is full of sea life:  red starfish, ramoras, barricuda, sharks!….even little puffer fish.  Here is a shark that was checking us out….I think he knew that Bob wanted to clean the hull of Pandora, and maybe he thought he might get lucky and snag a couple fingers or toes if he waited… (and there is nothing to get a sense of scale in this photo, so I’ll tell you this shark is about 8 feet long).

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When Bob did clean the hull (and I stood on deck keeping watch for the sharks, with a big screw driver in my hand, ready to bang on the hull to give Bob a warning to get out of the water!), all the fish hung out all around him.  The ramora stayed right by his side, and we’re thinking he was enjoying the little bits of stuff that Bob was scraping off the hull.

The second night we were here we saw the green flash!… and then there have been wonderful sunrises, sunsets, and even a rainbow and a water funnel.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAOLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAToday we left the Berries and sailed for Nassau where we will meet Christopher in just a couple more days.  While we wait I think I might take a look at the shops in Atlantis…. now there’s a thought! We are anchored right off some docks with a pretty restaurant called Luciano’s.  Dinner there last night was quite memorable! We ate on the terrace, shown here, overlooking Atlantis across the harbor.

2-11-2014 Lucianos terrace nassau

And I’m celebrating that I finished the first Oktoberfest sock!  Go me! I know the photo is too dark.  Sigh….it was getting late in the day.  I am happy with the pattern.  The barley stalks remind me of bubbles, and I love the frothy finish at the top! ….the color is quite reminiscent of a Blue Moon!  I might not see one of those ’til I get home in May…

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